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Best air bike 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]

Last Updated September 1, 2020

Charlie OliverLooking for ways to bring your air bike to the next level? Then you’ve come to the right place. I’m Charlie Oliver. After more than 38 hours of research, including interviewing two experts and spending 10 hours testing 21 popular air bike, I found the best air bike of 2018.

I will go through the main features and what you should consider when deciding which one to pick over the other. Like most products, some outdo others, so use my top three list below to get started on your search for the best air bike of 2018.

Best air bike of 2018

I make the search easier for you, by reviewing the best air bike on the market. I’ve based my selection methodology on customer feedback, the size, functionality, and budget to meet various demands. Welcome to my website! If you plan to buy air bike and looking for some recommendations, you have come to the right place. The above tidbits will bring you closer to selecting air bike that best serves your needs and as per your budget.

Test Results and Ratings

Rank №1 №2 №3
Total 4.8 4.5 4.3
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Awards 1
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How to save up to 86%? Here is little trick.

You must visit the page of sales. Here is the link. If you don’t care about which brand is better, then you can choose the air bike by the price and buy from the one who will offer the greatest discount.



№1 – Bike Pump Portable

Bike Pump Portable

【QUICK AND EASY PUMPING】-High pressure 160psi / 11bar offers quick pumping for mountain or road bikes. Making it efficient inflates on each push and pull for maximum air volume & faster tire inflation.
【TWIN VALVE DESIGN】 – Our One-head hose can switch between Presta and Schrader valves in seconds. Secure thread-on valve connection enables a super tight seal with no air leaks and no more damage on valve stem.
Absolutely no frills

Why did this air bike win the first place?

I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days.
















№2 – Marcy Exercise Upright Fan Bike for Cardio Training and Workout AIR-1

Marcy Exercise Upright Fan Bike for Cardio Training and Workout AIR-1

PREMIUM STEEL FRAMEWORK–This multifunctional equipment features a premium steel frame that combines design and performance. Constructed from 14-gauge steel tubing with scratch-resistant and powder coated finished, this bike boasts durability in its uses
Heavy in weight as compared to others in our lineup.

Why did this air bike come in second place?

The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office.
















№3 – Assault AirBike by Assault Fitness

Assault AirBike by Assault Fitness

Twenty Sealed Ball Bearings throughout the frame and pivot points to provide a smooth and durable feel
Unlimited Resistance for upper and lower body extremities based on Air Resistance; Get a complete Cross-Fit Workout
Computer features motivational programs providing many programs (Tabata, Intervals, Watts, Heart Rate) to accomplish your fitness goals
Need frequent maintenance.
The price is clearly unaffordable for the most buyers..

Why did this air bike take third place?

This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. I hope that the good reputation of the manufacturer will guarantee a long-term work. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new.
















air bike Buyer’s Guide

If you keep the before points in mind, you can easily go out to the market and buy air bike, right? No!

Canyon’s Grand Canyon cross-country hardtail

Cross-country bikes tend to use larger diameter 29in wheels — so are often referred to as 29ers — combined with lightly treaded, low-volume and fast-rolling tyres for maximum speed, though some brands offer them with 650b wheels — also called 27.5in.

They tend to use steeper head angles combined with longer stems and narrower bars for quick reacting handling and to place the rider into an efficient pedalling position.

The downside of this type of geometry is that it can make them harder to control on steeper descents, especially when combined with shorter-travel suspension and skinnier tyres.

Cheaper cross-country bikes will use alloy frames, but carbon is the default choice for top-end race bikes — although exotic materials such as titanium are sometimes seen. They tend to have a very wide range of gears to allow steep climbing as well as a high top speed.

Buy one if: you like pushing your heart rate as high as it’ll go and riding for hours on end.

Entry: £750 (hardtail), £1,000 (full suspension)

This is the most popular style of bike because it can be used for pretty much anything.

Trail bikes have more relaxed angles to give greater confidence when descending and kit that’s designed to deal with more punishment. They use shorter stems and wider handlebars to help improve control at speed, while tyres will have more aggressive tread.

Enduro bike

Enduro is a racing format in which the descents are timed, but you still have to pedal yourself around the course. That means that these bikes are designed to perform exceptionally well down steep and difficult trails but are still light and efficient enough to pedal back to the top.

Enduro bikes tend to have more travel than ‘normal’ trail bikes, and are almost exclusively full suspension. Most use around 160-170mm of travel at either end, paired to tough wheels and reinforced tyres. The suspension units they use are still air-sprung but tend to be heavier duty with a wide range of damping adjustments to tune their downhill performance.

Some have remotes that allow you to change the bike’s geometry and travel between a downhill and uphill mode. Many have just one chainring and a device to prevent the chain falling off paired to a wide range of gears at the back. Enduro bikes are also called ‘all mountain’ bikes as they’re ideal for riding in mountainous and technical terrain.

Downhill bike

As the name suggests, these bikes are about doing one thing; going down steep and technical tracks very, very quickly.

They have around 200mm of travel at either end, often using coil sprung suspension that’s optimised for pure traction and support, rather than pedalling ability.

To put up with the huge forces the bikes are put under, the forks have legs that extend above the head tube and are then braced together, known as a ‘double-crown’ or ‘triple-clamp’ fork. Again, aluminium is the choice for cheaper bikes, while pro-level machinery will be carbon.

Electric mountain bike

Motorised mountain bikes are becoming very popular indeed, and it’s now possible to find electric mountain bikes in pretty much all of the disciplines listed above.

These bikes incorporate a motor and battery into their design and work by assisting the pedalling that a rider delivers. The power on offer is usually adjusted via a control unit at the bike’s handlebar.

These bikes are significantly heavier than their non-motorised equivalents but can make light work of climbing up the steepest of gradients. Don’t go thinking riding an e-bike is a piece of cake though, these can deliver a workout that many pros use to train with.

Dirt jump bikes

As the name suggests, these are meant for hitting jumps or pump tracks.

They use tough frames that are easy to move about in the air, short-travel forks and often only have one gear for simplicity.

Singlespeed mountain bikes

Popular with masochists, these bikes only have one gear.

The lack of moving parts means they’re simple to maintain and many people like to run them through the winter months to prevent damaging another bike.

They can be very cheap but many are also expensive, exotic bikes built by niche custom framebuilders. They’re usually hardtails or fully rigid.

Air spring

Most forks are air-sprung, so they’re adjustable to different rider weights and riding styles with a shock pump. Pushing back against the main air spring inside the fork is a negative spring, which helps the fork break away, and improves small-bump compliance. The negative element is either a second air chamber, that automatically equalises when you charge the main spring, or a small coil.

Downhill mountain bikes have suspension at the front and rear. Typically they will have 200mm of travel – that means the suspension provides 200mm of cushioning on any impacts. Suspension set up is crucial for downhill bikes, have it too hard and it will feel like you’re riding a shopping trolley – too soft and there’s not much point in having it at all as you’ll just blow right through it. You can also adjust how the suspension performs throughout its travel, for example how fast it rebounds after it has taken an impact.

Double crown forks are stiffer and more sturdy, however they will not allow you to turn your bars as much as you are used to if you’re coming from a single-crown set up.

Carbon wheels are both available at downhill level but their combination of high strength and low weight means they won’t come cheap. Aluminium ones will serve a budget rider better and many years of development have left them able to take the big hits associated with the sport with a consistent feel.

Downhill tyres tend to favour grip over rolling resistance so will be fatter, stronger and more aggressive than your trail tyres. Look for tyres between 2.3and 2.inches. They are also heavier than you may be used to but this is a trade off for the added strength – otherwise you’d be puncturing everywhere.

Different tyres offer different compounds – some are more grippy while others are more durable. There are also different tread patterns for different conditions. If you’re in the UK you’ll at least want a set of dry tyres and a set of mud tyres.

The rest

As you will be going faster on a downhill bike you need to be able to slow down quickly too. Brakes will often be four piston affairs bolted onto 203mm rotors for maximum stopping power.

Gears may not seem important when you’re mainly free-wheeling but top racers use them more than you might realise. A compact seven speed cassette will probably be sufficient for most riding but there’s no harm in having more.

For the rest of your hardware you want as long-lasting and durable kit as possible. Bars are often 760mm+ with short stubby stems. Both flat and clipless pedals can be used depending on your preference, although most riders will switch to flats in muddy conditions.

Downhill bikes have saddles and seatposts, but often they are slammed right down into the frame to protect a riders…erm, undercarriage, from a big impact.

Essential bike accessories

You will definitely need accessories like helmets and lights, but others depend on what you use your bike for. Here are a few recommendations.

You’ll definitely need a pump – the tyres won’t be fully inflated on a new bike.

They’re invaluable if you have a nasty fall. They can even save your life.

The difference between men and women’s bikes

Generally, there isn’t much variation between the two types. The frame of the bike is the biggest defining factor – women’s bikes have more of a slanted frame to suit a ‘shorter torso, longer legs’ female body shape.

Aside from this, there may be a colour difference or addition of a basket to some women’s bikes. But if you see a bike you like and it’s the right size, it doesn’t matter what gender it specifies, it should be comfortable for you to ride.

Given that weight should have high priority when choosing a balance bike, parents may need to sacrifice some features in order to achieve the desired bike weight. Athletic kids usually can manage heavier bikes without concern and the extra features may be worth it. However, petite or less coordinated kids can struggle with heavier bikes, so it is recommended to adhere to the 30% rule.


The tires on a balance bike determine how smooth it will ride (cushioning) and whether it will maintain traction on various surfaces. There are five basic types of balance bike tires: air, foam, rubber, plastic and big apple.

Air tires add about to lbs. to the weight of a bike (depending on the quality of the tire and rims), but the extra weight is worth the overall comfort and smoothness of the ride. For example, the Radio Flyer Glide and Go with Air Tires weighs 9.lbs., while the same bike with foam tires weighs 6.lbs.

EVA Foam tires are cheaper, lighter, and puncture-proof (will never go flat). They are as common as air tires, but provide limited traction and little, if any, cushioning. Because they are solid and have very little give, more experienced riders will be left to absorb almost all of the impact when going down a curb, over a jump, or on a rocky surface. Foam tires provide enough traction for riders on paved surfaces but can lose traction on all-terrain surfaces as well as on smooth surfaces like gym floors. The tread on foam tires is minimal and quickly wears away. Foam tires are found on Strider, Glide Bikes, and many lower-end bikes.

Hard Plastic tires are the lightest of the bunch but are also the lowest in quality. They provide no traction or cushioning and are suitable for indoor use only. They are found on the yBIKE.

Turning Limiters

Turning limiters block the handlebar and front wheel from completing a full revolution, preventing sharp turns and keeping the brake cable from getting twisted. Proponents claim they are safer, while detractors claim they prevent kids from learning proper steering while they are young and still riding at slow speeds. While there are pros and cons to turning limiters, the overall effect most limiters have on riding is minor, and their presence shouldn’t be a determining factor in your purchase. Poorly designed limiters that greatly reduce the turning radius of the bike should be avoided, while elastic limiters (found on the WOOMand LikeaBike Jumper), are desirable as they provide gentle correction and are removable.

Frame Materials

Balance bikes come in metal alloys, wood, and composite frames, with metal being the most common. Aluminum alloy 606is the cream-of-the-crop in bike frames, while wood is the most problematic. Composite is extremely durable, but the frame is prone to flexing with taller/heavier kids or 5-year-olds.

Wood bikes can be more environmentally friendly but are less adjustable than metal bikes. Higher-end wood frames (ex: Early Riders) can last for years if properly taken care of, while cheap, lower-end wood bikes (ex: Smart Gear), tend to fall apart fairly quickly.

Composite frames are a glass fiber reinforced nylon composite found only on FirstBIKE. They offer a lightweight frame with a high weight capacity, without the concerns of rust or chipping paint. Composite frames, however, can bend or flex when in use by an older or taller rider, but most kids transition to a pedal bike before the flexing becomes an issue.

Most magnetic resistance turbos have an ability to increase the magnetic force on the unit; to vary the resistance that you are pushing against; this is done through a trigger switch, which you can usually mount on your handlebars.

The resistance in a fluid based system is created by a propeller, which spins inside a fluid filled chamber. Fluid based system are usually recognisable by the cooling fins on the fluid chamber.

This design provide a steadier resistance than magnetic systems, and the ability to control the resistance comes from you changing gears on your bike, rather than an external resistance trigger that is found on magnetic trainers.

Direct Drive

The latest development in turbo technology is the Direct Drive system. You remove the rear wheel, and sit the rear drop-outs of the bike onto the turbo trainer.

Frame and mounting systems

When you are looking at the turbo you want to purchase, it is worth considering the frame design and mounting system. A turbo is a great means to warm up before an event, such as a time trial; so portability can be a desired attribute; for those looking for this quality, make sure you consider units with folding frames (a direct drive system is less portable because they tend to not be foldable).

The second factor is the mounting of the wheel: most turbo trainers come with a strong quick release rear skewer that you put in place of your original skewer. The turbo then clamps onto the skewer, to lock the wheel in place, securely. The only system that does not use this is the Direct Drive system, where the rear dropouts are clamped directly to the turbo.

Like a spin class in your own home.

Some people use bike trainers for practice before marathons or competitions, whereas others tend to use it as a substitute for riding outside if the weather is unfavorable.  Either way, a bike trainer can provide a high quality workout, and in many cases providers the rider with a more difficult and challenging ride, than riding outdoors.

What to Look for in a Bike Trainer

The intensity of your workouts. If you are a beginner to biking, perhaps a more entry level bike trainer would be best for you. If you are training for more serious races and need precision in your efforts levels, then a more advanced bike trainer with a power meter might be worth the extra investment.

Direct-drive trainers tend to be quieter to operate. apartment with two roommates, you might need to opt for quiet.  If you have a nice workout room that is relatively secluded, your options might be more.

Kinetic trainers.

Kinetic makes one of the most popular and high-quality bike trainers in the entire world. Bike trainer veterans claim that Kinetic is worth the money and the steep upfront cost that might seem daunting at first. Almost all of their trainers are acclaimed to be brilliant pieces of technology. Amongst their trainers is the Rock and Roll bike trainer that is by far one of the most sold and appreciated ones in the bike trainer industry.

What makes it so different from all the others is that it gives a more realistic ride than most other trainers. Even though a bike trainer is meant to keep the bike stationary, it is not as realistic as real riding. With this trainer, the bike can be swayed left to right exactly the way you would in an outdoor riding experience. Apart from this unique feature, the fluid resistance unit is one of the best in the market, and it slows even beginners to control and adjust resistance according to their needs.

Thought it is a significantly large trainer and is rather pricey, the feel of the bike ride and the exceptional fluid resistance mechanism make this a must have for enthusiasts.  Find it here.

Other Trainer Accessories

In addition to the trainer itself, you might want to consider a few other accessories.

Training videos. In our opinion, these are indispensable and the reason you get a trainer.  There are several series of Cycling DVDs out there that will help you get the most out of our workouts. Having a focused training session will turn your trainer session into a spin class.  Done right, these will be incredible workouts.  You can usually find ones that are anywhere from 30 minutes to more than 90 minutes long, and they can either be in DVD form or streamed to a device or TV.  We recommend having at least 5-to choose from, as your available time and desired intensity will vary from day to day.  Our favorites tend to be the Spinervals series.

Trainer tires, designed for the heat of a bike trainer.

Closing thoughts

Why buy best road bike online? It’s a good question. The majority of big bike brands sell via dealerships and physical stores. This makes sense for a number of reasons including getting a perfect size, fit and color for your best road bike under 1000, see it in person, get everything just right and maybe even form a relationship with your local bike shop, something that will likely come in handy when you need parts or service. So if this is your first bike, buying something from the likes of Trek, Specialized, Giant, Cannondale etc. in a physical store might make sense.

Size & Fit

Steel, aluminum and carbon fiber are the most commonly used materials for building bike frames.

Steel is the heaviest of the three but makes up for it by being compliant. It offers a good degree of comfort by absorbing some of the bumps that may come up while riding. Steel is easy to work with and is still a very viable material if weight is not a concern. However, very few mass-manufactured bikes use steel frames these days.

Aluminum or aluminum alloys are lighter than steel and have an excellent strength-to-weight ratio and stiffness. This stiffness translates into efficient power transfer. This same property might also lead to a harsher ride. Aluminum frames are not as forgiving to ride as Steel but this might change depending on the specific alloy used and the overall design of the frame. Still, it is light and relatively inexpensive, making it one of the most popular frame materials.

Carbon fiber is a very versatile material. Depending on the requirement, it can be made as soft as a sponge or as hard as a rock by altering the weave and bonding materials. It has the best strength to weight ratio and is therefore suited to bikes that are designed with competitive or racing aspirations. Well-made frames are super light, incredibly strong and because they can be designed to flex in certain places and be rigid in others, it is possible to attain the perfect balance of stiffness and comfort. The complexity and high-tech nature of the material means that it is usually the most expensive.

Fork Material

Road bikes do not have suspensions and therefore have forks that are rigid. A fork is the part of the bicycle that holds the front wheel. A good road bike fork should assist with precise and accurate steering while absorbing some of the road-buzz that gets transmitted upwards.

As with frame materials, carbon fiber and steel should offer the most compliance and aluminum the least. When it comes to weight, carbon fiber would again be the lightest, followed by aluminum and lastly, steel. It’s important to note that the design of the fork may affect ride characteristics. For example, a curved aluminum fork should be more forgiving and absorbent in comparison to one that is straight. It might also make a lot of sense to have a fork material that differs from the frame. An example of this would be to pair an aluminum frame with a carbon fork, giving you the best of both worlds while also keeping overall cost in check. In most cases, the extra dollars for the carbon fork option are worth it as this is not something you will normally change over the lifetime of the bike.

Drivetrain and Groupset

As we go upwards from ‘Basic’ to ‘Pro’ level, the quality, and price of the components increases and the weight decreases. To let you in on a secret though, the actual performance and reliability reach a point of diminishing returns once you go past the ‘Mid-Range’ tier. Basically, apart from weight, you won’t see a difference going upwards of, say the Shimano Tiagra/10groups. In fact, even the entry level Sora is an admirable performer if you look after it. What we’re trying to say is that you don’t need to spend a lot here. More so, these parts are upgradable so you can swap them out for better ones in the future if you need to.


Wheels can determine things like the type of tires you can use and also the kind of brakes. For someone looking to train and improve their fitness, a strong wheel is preferable to a lighter one. Lighter wheels can make a significant difference to the overall performance of the bike since rotating weight counts more than static weight, something to keep in mind should you consider upgrading them later on. For the most part, the wheels that come with your bike should be good enough as long as they are straight and true.

Wheel size

Different bikes will run different wheel sizes, and this will affect the fit of the mudguards. As a general rule, road bikes will be 700c and hybrid bikes can be 700c or the smaller 26inch diameter.

Mountain bikes will usually have either 27.inches or 29inches. This can make getting full-length mudguards tricky or practically impossible, but there are other options.

Check the size of your wheels to make sure you get right-sized mudguards! If you’re not sure, the wheel size will be written on the sidewall of the tyres.

Threaded eyelets

The majority of mudguards out there bolt directly onto the bike frame, which means the bike needs to have the right elements built in to allow this. This includes threaded eyelets at the rear of the bike, at the dropout where the wheel fits into the frame and another bolt at the apex of the forks at the front.

Most hybrid bikes will have these elements, but the majority of road bikes and mountain bikes won’t. Luckily, there are a variety of mudguards that clamp onto the frame at either the seat post or the rear stays.

Schwinn 170i Upright Exercise Bike

We think the best indoor exercise bike in terms of value, performance and durability is the Schwinn 170i Upright.

It’s a mid-range bike with a DualTrack console and magnetic resistance. It’s also highly adjustable and has 2pre-set workouts. If you need an exercise bike that provides a great workout without costing a fortune, the 170i is an excellent choice.

Ultrasport Foldable F-Bike Exercise Bike

If you’re looking for a simple exercise bike that doesn’t take up too much space, the Ultrasport Foldable could be a good option. It’s not robust enough for intense workouts, but it’s great if you want to gradually increase your fitness without spending a lot of money.

As you would expect from a cheap exercise bike, it has a relatively low weight limit of 100kg (although there is a heavy option with a 130kg limit). It uses a magnetic resistance system with settings, and can is a foldable bike to make it easier to store.

The console is relatively basic, although it shows calories, speed, pulse, distance and time. Despite the lack of a flywheel, there are eight resistance levels and the seat can be adjusted between 83cm-93cm. The handlebars are fixed, however, due to the nature of the design.

The biggest problem with the F-Bike is that some people feel the riding position is awkward – especially for taller cyclists. The lack of adjustable options (aside from the seat height) means that the bike either fits you or it doesn’t, so we don’t recommend it for people over foot tall.

For riders under six foot who want a gentle workout, however, the F-Bike is a good option. It’s cheap, easy to setup, quiet and doesn’t take up much room when folded.

York Active 110

The York Active 1is another budget upright exercise bike. It’s more expensive than the Ultrasport Foldable, yet is also more robust and uses magnetic resistance for a smoother ride.

Like other budget bikes, the York 1is targeted at beginners. It’s a simple bike with a basic LCD screen, eight resistance settings and lightweight 4kg flywheel. This is too light for serious training, but is fine for beginners if you don’t want to spend a lot of money.

One thing we like about the York 1is that both the seat reach and height can be adjusted. It also has pedal ​straps and adjustable handlebars, so you can adapt it to your personal requirements. The magnetic resistance system also allows for four pre-set workout programmes.

As you would expect from a budget exercise bike, there are some drawbacks. ​It’s one of the more fiddly bikes to put together, so you need to set aside a decent chunk of time to follow the instructions. The 1also isn’t robust enough for intense workouts, so we wouldn’t recommend it for athletic training.

Even with these drawbacks, the York Active 1provides great value for money. ​In fact, we think it’s one of the best value exercise bikes on the market at the moment. If you’re looking for an upright bike for medium-intensity workouts that also doesn’t cost a huge amount of money, it’s one of our top recommendations.

JLL IC200 Indoor Cycle

If you want an intense workout but don’t have the money for an expensive indoor cycle bike, the JLL IC200 is an option to consider. It’s a stylish spin bike that’s available for a very reasonable price.

Unlike upright bikes, indoor cycles have a perimeter-weighted flywheel that’s designed to more closely mimic the feel of a road. In this case, the flywheel is 10kg, which is heavy enough for a smooth ride and to challenge even advanced riders.

Considering the low price, it would be unfair to expect the same comfort and performance as more expensive spin bikes. With that said, it’s a relatively noisy bike and the seat also isn’t the most comfortable. While there are settings for resistance, the top level isn’t as difficult as professional spin bikes.

Schwinn Airdyne ADDual Action Air Cycle

The first air-resistance exercise bike on this list is the Schwinn Airdyne ADIt’s a premium model with a durable design that provides an intense cardio workout.

Unlike upright bikes, the Dual Action ADis designed to provide a workout for both the upper and lower body with its elliptical-style handles. It also doesn’t have a flywheel – the resistance is provided by air and increases as you pedal faster. This allows for unlimited resistance so you’ll never outgrow the machine.

Life Fitness C1

If you’re looking for a premium upright exercise bike, the Life Fitness Cis our favourite mode. It’s one of the best exercise bikes on the market, due to its smooth operation and magnetic resistance, and provides value despite its high price tag.

The Cisn’t the most stylish exercise bike, but the “Go” console adds a high-tech appeal. There are 1preset programmes, two user profiles and a clear screen, along with handlebar heart rate sensors and the option of wireless telemetry. The console also has an energy saving button, which allows you to lower energy usage without unplugging the bike.

Resistance is provided by an Eddy current system which ensures quiet and smooth operation. The seat can be adjusted and the pedals come with ratcheting straps for fast adjustments.

The Life Fitness Cdoesn’t have many gimmicky features like others in its price range, but it provides a smooth and comfortable ride and is capable of handling workouts of any intensity. If you want a durable machine that’s enjoyable to use, it’s a great choice.

How We Pick Our Recommended Exercise Bikes

We’ve written an in-depth guide on how to choose an exercise bike here – and we use the same criteria when selecting the best exercise bikes. Here’s a brief run-down of what we look for though.

Flywheel weight. There’s no “best” flywheel weight, but it should ideally be at least 6kg to provide a smooth riding experience. The exception is budget exercise bikes, as it’s often unrealistic to expect a heavy wheel on a bike that costs less than £150.

Display. Exercise bike displays can show a variety of statistics, from basic distance and speed to advanced measures such as cadence and telemetric heart rate monitoring. We take into account the quality of the display and the various statistics it provides.

Workout programs. Bikes with resistance that can be controlled electronically often include pre-programmed workouts. These are designed to provide a more interesting or effective workout than basic riding. We look at the range of programs provided and also whether manual programs can be created.

Ease of assembly. You should expect to spend at least an hour assembling a new exercise bike, but some are more fiddly than others. We look for bikes that are easy to assemble and also come with clear instructions.

Resistance type. The most common types of resistance are magnetic, frictional and air. For most people, magnetic resistance is best, as it’s quiet, can be adjusted electronically and requires less maintenance. We also consider how much resistance a bike is capable of providing.

Buyer reviews. We also take into consideration the rating of an exercise bike on online shopping sites. This allows us to get an overview of the benefits and drawbacks of a bike from real people who’ve used it extensively.

Value for money. Price is one of the most important factors when choosing the best exercise bike – but we think the value is more important. Instead of just looking at the price, we try to compare a bike’s features and performance to similar models to see whether it provides value for money.

Most of the steel parts within the frame are sealed with a thick layer of industrial powder coating paint, corrosion, and scratch resistant, black in color. The only parts that feature a chrome finish are the upright and horizontal adjustment bars of the seat.

Seat and handlebars

The seat and the whole bike construction are rated for a maximum user capacity of 300 lbs (13kg). However, many users have reported having been using the bike with absolutely no issues when they weighed over 340 lbs (15kg).

This exercise bike features only mobile handlebars. These are non-adjustable and feature simple, rubber foam grips.


To begin with, it has two pre-set Interval workouts, 20-and 10-20, which offer high-intensity intervals. The 20-workout features a work interval of 20 seconds and a rest interval of seconds. Conversely, the 10-20 workout has a sec. work interval, with a 20 sec. rest interval. There is also a Custom Interval function which gives you the possibility to create your own workout interval. The console also offers target setting functions for time, distance, calories, and heart rate. Each program has its own key, situated on the right side of the console.

The console unit uses two AA-type batteries. It also has a Sleep Mode to which will enter after minutes of inactivity on the bike. All the previously inserted data will be saved, though, when the unit enters its Sleep Mode, so you can catch up later.

Diamondback Fitness 510Ic Indoor Cycle.

With almost all of the features of the Keiser except for its very smooth belt drive system, the Diamondback Fitness 510Ic is a terrific spin bike for less than half the price.

This is a heavy indoor cycle with durability to match; the belt-driven/flywheel system works extremely well to give you the different varieties of workouts most people want from a spinner since you can select between 1levels of computer-controlled resistance. The ride is even quieter than you’d normally expect with a chain drive, and there are full fore/aft handlebar and seat adjustments possible for riding comfort.

One of the standout features of the 510Ic is the computerized integration between its operation and the monitor mounted on the bike. It gives you a ton of real-time information about your ride and fitness (including four heart rate functions) and also has 1different automated workouts programmed into the system, much like you’d find on an upright model but unusual on spinners.

Spinner Commercial Spin Bike.

It’s perhaps the “most authentic” biking experience of any of our list of top best spin bikes. Resistance is adjusted with an easy-to-reach knob.

This machine is also quite user-friendly in terms of customization, with fore and aft handlebars and seat that are micro-adjustable as well as SPD compatible pedals. A little dicier for most users, though, are adjustments to the chain and flywheel, if needed.

There are conveniently-placed elbow rests for the times you want to let go of the handlebars for a bit, plus two water bottle holders if you’re the type who gets really thirsty while riding. The one real drawback: the NXT’s touchscreen display isn’t computerized, so you can’t see things like distance or calories as you bike. It will show you simulated courses, however, and you can always buy a separate computerized monitor.

The Spinner NXT is a very nice spin bike, at a price significantly lower than the Keiser although a bit higher than its closest competitors. If you’re not looking for the ultimate in an indoor cycling machine, it’s a solid choice which should last pretty close to a lifetime.

Sunny SF-B100Indoor Cycling Bike.

Extremely affordable and functional, the Sunny SF-B100is a great choice as an entry spin bike. This small unit (best suited to riders under 6-2) is quite study thanks to its steel skeleton, and provides a good range of resistance because of its chain drive system; as with most of these types of spinners, the resistance is controlled with an adjustable knob on the frame.

The Sunny is a bit noisier than the other bikes on our list, but it’s not really loud enough to be intrusive as you’re riding.

There aren’t as many comfort adjustments as you’ll find on more expensive competitors, with the handlebars only moving up and down, the pedals (which can, of course, be changed out for standard ones) only featuring toe straps, and the seat (which is not very comfortable, so you may want to replace or pad it) only adjustable over a relatively short range. There is also no console providing feedback on distance, speed or heart rate.

The cost overrides any negatives you might find on this bike. If you’re looking for your first indoor exercise bike to be strong and provide a good workout – the Sunny is a very strong contender.

First time buyers should probably select a complete off-the-shelf model that includes all the individual component parts rather than selecting each part of the bicycle individually. Nevertheless, it is helpful for bike buyers to understand the basics of the numerous individual parts that make up a bicycle. As is the case when making any purchase, an educated consumer is better able to make informed buying decisions, which is the primary goal of this Buying Guide.

Road bike with traditional frame geometry

Compact—frames have a sloping top tube (the steepness of which varies greatly among different compact frames), shorter wheelbase, and smaller rear triangle than traditional frames. The geometries allow for smaller triangles than on traditional frames, which increases the strength and stiffness of the frame while also improving maneuverability and handling. They are designed to look and feel more radical than traditional frames with a ride that many consider to be stiffer and more responsive. Compact frames tend to be slightly lighter than their traditional counterparts due to the differences in their geometries. Another advantage of compact frames is the ability to use taller head tubes, providing additional height which results in a more upright and thus comfortable riding position yet still maintaining a stiff and responsive ride. Compact frames are the most widely used type at the top levels of competition today.

Road bike with compact frame geometry

Semi-Compact—frames have a top tube with a slight slope compared to a traditional frame yet less dramatic of a slope than compact frames. The slight slope of the top tube still results in a frame with a shorter wheelbase, smaller rear triangle, and lower center of gravity than traditional frames, resulting in a stiffer and more responsive ride.

Road bike fork example

The purpose of a bike fork is to secure and steer the front wheel. The primary variable in the performance of forks in that regard is a characteristic referred to as ‘rake.’ This refers to the curvature or angle of the fork blades. The greater the rake, the faster the steering—that is, less input is required to make the bicycle turn.

Forks are commonly made of aluminum, carbon fiber, steel, titanium, or some combination of those materials. Carbon fiber has become a popular choice for forks due to its light weight and inherent ability to absorb shocks, producing a fast and comfortable ride. Aluminum and steel are both widely used in making forks. Each material produces its own ride characteristics, so which is best for an individual rider is, for the most part, a matter of personal preference. Titanium is the least used material for forks due largely to the higher material and construction costs versus the others.


The most important thing for beginning riders to know about handlebars is that the further you bend over them, the more weight and pressure is placed upon your hands, which affects comfort. In addition, the size and shape of handlebars affect comfort and handling. The proper size handlebar will place your hands in a position that supports your upper body without placing strain on your neck and shoulders. For a comfortable fit, the handlebars should match the width of your shoulders, and you should be able to comfortably reach the brake levers with just a slight bend at the elbow. Most handlebars today are made of aluminum or carbon fiber. There are two board types of handlebar styles used on road bikes.

Drop-Bar Handlebars —these are designed to be lightweight and aerodynamic and are intended for riders who want to go faster or are concerned about efficiency. Drop-bar handlebars allow for a greater variety of riding and hand positions than flat-bars.

Drop-bar handlebars

Flat-Bar Handlebars —these are designed to combine the performance characteristics of drop-bar handlebars while providing a slightly more upright and thus comfortable position. The more upright riding position also allows for better road visibility and spotting potential hazards. While they provide a more relaxed and comfortable riding position, they are slightly less efficient than drop-bar handlebars.

Flat bar handlebars

Wheels play a significant role in a bicycle’s ride quality since they are the direct contact points with the ground. Weight in particular affects the riding experience. Reduced wheel weight dramatically improves a bicycle’s climbing, acceleration, and handling. Even seemingly slight weight reductions of a few-hundred grams at the wheels can feel like a few pounds to the rider.

The current thinking among cycling professionals is that wheel aerodynamics has a greater impact on performance than weight. A deep-section rim—typically one with a profile of 30 mm or greater—increases the wheel’s aerodynamic efficiency, making it faster than its traditional counterpart. While it is true that a deep-section rim is heavier, the added weight is more than offset by the greater aerodynamic efficiency.

Aerodynamic wheels

Most rims currently on the market are made of aluminum or, at the higher-end, carbon fiber. Older bicycle rims were typically made of steel. Today, steel has been replaced as the material of choice for wheels due to its weight but also because of how slick steel rims become in wet conditions, which compromises braking power.

The next part of the wheel we’ll discuss briefly are spokes. While they may not look like much more than an afterthought to new riders, they actually serve some very important functions. They add strength to the rim; support the rider’s weight on the wheel; and transfer the rider’s leg power from the hub to the wheel. Most spokes are made of stainless steel, making them strong and not susceptible to rusting. Bicycle wheels traditionally contained 7spokes (3in the front and 40 in the rear). Wheels with fewer spokes have been introduced within the past couple of decades, but some cyclists don’t view that as a positive development since there’s a belief that such wheels are noticeably weaker. Fewer spokes require a heavier rim to compensate, so any weight advantage is nullified. Ideally, the front and rear wheels shouldn’t contain the same number of spokes. If they do, either the front wheel is heavier than necessary, or the rear wheel is weaker than it ought to be.

Modern road bike with aerodynamic wheels

Tire choice is influenced by the type of riding you’ll be doing and what ride characteristics you want. The next factor is tire size. Bicycle tire size is composed of two numbers, such as 700 x 23, with the first number indicating the approximate outside diameter of the tire in millimeters, and the second number representing the width, also in millimeters. Today’s road bikes utilize either 650 or 700 tires, which is the most common size. 650 tires accelerate faster than standard 700 but tend to ride a bit rougher. Most racing bikes use 700 tires with widths ranging from 1to 23, and touring bikes usually use tire widths ranging from 2to 28, which provide greater stability and comfort. Tread is another factor to consider when choosing a tire. In general, more tread equals more grip, but it also produces more rolling resistance, which decreases speed. If you’re going to be riding on pavement, you’ll want a tire with a smooth tread pattern.


Groupset (or ‘gruppo’) refers to the collection of mechanical parts that make up a bicycle’s gearing and braking systems. These parts contribute to the overall weight of a bicycle. Just as with the bicycle frame, the balance between weight and strength of the parts must be taken into consideration and factor prominently into the price of groupsets. Another feature that affects price is how fast and sharply they shift. While all groupsets will shift gears, the more expensive ones do so faster and sharper. Complete off-the-shelf bicycles will often contain a mixture of different brands in the groupset in an effort to contain costs.

Rear Road Bike Derailleurs

Standard Double—consists of two chainrings, one 53-tooth outer ring and one 39-tooth inner ring. This type is typically used by professional riders.

Compact—consists of two chainrings, one 53-tooth outer ring but a smaller 34-tooth inner ring. This allows for a lighter bottom gear, making it easier to climb steep slopes. Compact cranksets are the most common type used on road bikes today.

Semi-Compact—consists of two chainrings, one 52-tooth outer ring and a 36-tooth inner ring.

Triple—consists of three chainrings, one 50-tooth outer ring, one 39-tooth middle ring, and a 30-tooth inner ring. The popularity of the triple has waned after the introduction of the compact crankset. Triple cranksets are still commonly found on lower-priced entry level road bikes. Touring cyclists who carry the added weight of luggage and supplies also still use the triple.

Modern road bike chain

Cassettes—refer to the collection of cogs attached to the rear wheel and drive the bicycle upon pedaling. Road bike cassettes typically contain 9, 10, or 1cogs and will have an 11, 12, or 13-tooth cog as the high gear with the low gear generally having anywhere from 2teeth up to 3teeth. Here’s a guide to the ride profile of various cassettes.

Determining the Right Size Road Bike for You

The right size bike is crucial for an enjoyable and safe riding experience. Riding a bike that doesn’t fit well is uncomfortable and can even result in injury as a result of being too cramped or too stretched out. A frame that’s too large makes it difficult to control, reach the ground, and even reach the shifters and brakes. And a frame that’s too small results in an uncomfortable and inefficient ride. Determining the ideal fit entails more than just finding the right size frame; it also requires a good fit for all the primary contact points—saddle, handlebars, and pedals.

Modern frames are available in a wide range of sizes, so finding the right fit for you is simply a matter of knowing a couple of key measurements. Road bikes come in three basic frame geometries—traditional, compact, and semi-compact—which affect the sizing of your bike.

Bike sizing measurements

In selecting a frame that best suits your leg length, perform this simple stand-over test—throw your leg over the bike’s top tube and straddle it. For road bikes, you generally want about one to two inches of clearance between the bike and yourself.

Next, you have to consider seat height. For a good fit, your leg should have a slight bend when your pedal is at its lowest point in its rotation. Your ideal seat positing can be achieved by simply making the appropriate up or down adjustment to the seat height.

Another crucial measurement in determining your ideal bike size is the effective top tube length. This is the distance from the head tube to the seat tube (see figure above) for compact and semi-compact frame designs. With traditional frame geometry, it’s simply the length of the top tube. If your top tube length is too long, it will force you to overreach to the handlebars, making for an uncomfortable riding position especially on longer rides. For a comfortable riding position, your arms should not have to fully extend to reach the handlebars; instead, your elbows should be slightly bent with relaxed shoulders so that you’re neither too far nor too close to the handlebars.

CX:  CX is a shortened term for cyclo-cross.

Disc brakes:  Disc brakes are comprised of a metal disc attached to the hub of the wheel and can be operated either by hydraulic fluid or by cable.

Down tube:  The down tube connects the bottom of the head tube to the bottom bracket shell.

Drop handlebar:  Drop handlebars are predominantly used on road and track bikes.

Entry level:  The term entry level is often used for first time riders wanting to buy their first bike.

Fork:  The fork connect to the stem/handlebars allowing the rider to turn the front wheel and balance the bike.

Frame:  The bicycle frame is the main component of the bike composed of the frame tubes. The wheels and other components are attached to the frame.

Freehub:  The freehub is a component of the rear hub. It has a ratchet mechanism built into it to allow freewheeling/coasting.

Front derailleur:  The front derailleur is used to move the chain in a sideways motion to allow shifting between chainrings.

Gear cables:  The gear cable travels from the gear lever to the corresponding derailleur to allow the changing of gears.

Gear levers:  Gear levers, often called shifters, enable the changing of the derailleur/gear mechanisms.

Handlebars:  Bicycle handlebars are a component fixed to the stem of a bike. The handlebars’ primary function is to steer the bike.

Hubs (front and rear): The hubs on a bike are the center part of the wheels.

Rear derailleur:  Moves the chain from one rear sprocket to another while keeping the chain tensioned.

Rims: The rims are the perfectly circular hoops on which the tires are mounted.

Steel:  Steel is a common alloy used in making bicycle parts.

Suspension fork:  This is a type of bicycle fork that has a suspension or shock absorbing unit.

Spokes:  Spokes connect the hub to the rim.

Saddle:  The bike saddle is the most intimate contact point on a bicycle upon which the rider sits. It’s clamped to the seatpost by the saddle rails.

Seatpost:  The seatpost is a removable extension that is placed in the seat tube of the frame.

Seat stays:  Seat stays connect the top of the seat tube to the rear dropouts.

Seat tube:  The seat tube is the insertion point for the seatpost.

Sprocket:  A sprocket is another name for one of the individual cogs on a cassette or freewheel.

Steerer tube:  The steerer tube is the upper part of the bicycle forks.

Stem:  The stem is the linking component to join the handlebars to the steerer tube of the forks.

Tapered (head tube):  These head tubes feature a bigger diameter at the bottom than the top.





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Final Word

First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.

Most important, have fun and choose your air bike wisely! Good luck!

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