Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best av to hdmi converter 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated March 1, 2019
Best av to hdmi converter of 2018
The rating is based on multiple factors: The 3 metrics ‐ Design, Materials, Performance, and other indicators such as: Popularity, Opinions, Brand, Reputation and more. There is a wide range of products available on the market today, and below I have reviewed 3 of the very best options. Many brands have introduced av to hdmi converter on the market. These brands have resulted in a variety for the user. These require that the consumers be well aware of what they are buying so as to make the best choice. I am going to specify each good-to-buy feature as much as possible for your references.
Test Results and Ratings
№1 – Kawany RCA to HDMI
Why did this av to hdmi converter win the first place?
I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I was completely satisfied with the price. Its counterparts in this price range are way worse.
№2 – Kawany HDMI to RCA
Why did this av to hdmi converter come in second place?
I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture.
№3 – RCA to HDMI
Why did this av to hdmi converter take third place?
This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great! It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.
av to hdmi converter Buyer’s Guide
Why you should trust me
I’ve worked in the home technology field for over 1years. Since 200I have been a contributor at Home Theater magazine, now Sound & Vision, reviewing home theater equipment and working in its A/V test lab. I was the writer of the “Tech Talk” monthly column in Channel Guide, covering all aspects of home entertainment products and technology. Currently, in addition to my work for The Wirecutter, I am a freelance editor working in post-production of film and television.
Who should get this
If you have a video game system from the ’80s or ’90s, an older camcorder, a VCR, or a Laserdisc player that you want to use with your new TV via HDMI, a video converter might be what you need. These converters take the native video resolution output of your playback device and upconvert it to a high-definition resolution (either 720p or 1080p), before outputting it via HDMI.
Most modern TVs have a single composite input, usually shared with an S-Video and Component input. If you’re already using that connection, a video converter would allow you to use one of your HDMI inputs instead of swapping out cables. The TV’s built-in upconverter will likely equal—or surpass—one of these inexpensive units, making them superfluous if you can use the TV’s composite input.
These converters are inexpensive, and their performance isn’t great. But that has less to do with the converters themselves than the fact that composite video is just low resolution to begin with—just 480i compared with the 1080p HD standard common on most TVs today. If you really want the best picture quality, we mention more-expensive options for enthusiasts below. The prices are up to more than 1times what we tested here, though, and probably not worth it if you’re just trying to play N6or watch some VHS tapes.
Digital Video Essentials HD Basics
Disney World of Wonder, sent via composite from our PlayStation 3, through the converter, to both an Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8350 projector and a Samsung LN-T3253H LCD TV. The Epson projector has a 1080p native resolution output, and the Samsung television has a resolution of 720p (768p to be exact, though this difference is marginal).
The Digital Video Essentials test patterns were 1080p and 720p versions of the SMPTE RP 13resolution pattern to look at the quality of the upconversion and see if any artifacts were present. From the World of Wonder disc, we used the A/V Sync Test to check for any lag that might be added during the conversion process.
We also checked real video not least so we could watch something more entertaining than test patterns. Using a Funai ZV427FXVCR we played a VHS of Meredith Willson’s classic The Music Man. I tested all variations of equipment: all converters with each display, plus the VCR direct to each display (for comparison with the display’s internal converter).
Three of the converters—the Cingk, Musou, and Teorder—looked and performed as near as makes-no-difference identical. They all require power via a USB connector, and have a Mini-USB–to–USB cable included. Next to the power input is a toggle to switch between 720p and 1080p, depending on the native resolution of your display. The Monoprice 10999is larger than the other three and requires an outlet for power. It too can switch between 720p and 1080p by way of a button, and has S-Video as an input option.
Of the four converters brought in, the Cingk earned our pick by offering slightly better performance for slightly less money. Also, it has an 18-month warranty instead of the 12-month warranty on the others. It performed marginally better than its inexpensive counterparts under test conditions, but you wouldn’t notice unless you compared them head to head. Otherwise, like the other models we tested, it’s small and unobtrusive and features USB charging. This is handy considering most TVs have a USB port on the back, negating the need for an additional outlet and wall wart.
The primary resolution tests consist of six boxes containing alternating white and black lines at a thickness of one, two, and three pixels. Each thickness is displayed both vertically (to show horizontal resolution) and horizontally (to show vertical resolution). On the 720p-resolution test through the converter, the one-pixel-thickness vertical pattern was significantly blurred. There was also flickering on the bottom four boxes, which indicates that the converter has some trouble deinterlacing the 480i source to progressive (the “p” in 720p and 1080p). For comparison, when connecting the player directly into the TV the separation of lines in the remainder of the boxes could be discerned, although not crisply, and there was no flickering.
As expected—and hoped for—when moving from the 720p test pattern to the 1080p test pattern we saw a visible increase in the apparent resolution. Though both the vertical and horizontal one-pixel resolution boxes were still blurred gray, the remaining four had increased definition over the 720p test. In addition, the flickering decreased noticeably. So when compared with the display itself (or to a lesser degree the Monoprice) there is still an issue with the upconversion, but the Cingk handles 1080p signals more adeptly than 720p signals. In other words, skip 720p and just use the 1080p mode (regardless of your TV’s resolution).
The A/V Sync test showed that there was no noticeable delay (input lag) added by the Cingk, so response with video games should be the same as what your TV itself manages.
Taking a look at the VHS of The Music Man, there was a definite flicker in the image as revealed by the test pattern. However, unless you’re right up at the TV it isn’t too distracting. The image itself is softer than when I watched the VHS without the converter, directly into the TV. The projector image was a tad clearer and the flicker wasn’t visible (being 1080p, which the Cingk processes better).
Wrapping it up
As technology marches on, fewer companies will spend the money to include legacy analog connections on their displays. S-Video in particular is endangered. Composite and component are likely soon to follow. These converters will allow the ability to continue to connect to the components of our youth, but this is definitely a case of “you get what you pay for.” If you have a display that is without a composite input, or the input is already being used, the Cingk Mini Video Converter is a great purchase. It’s inexpensive and gets the job done. If you want something a tiny bit better, or want to use S-Video, check out the Monoprice 109994.
Dodocool USB-C Charging Hub
For laptops that support only USB-C the Dodocool USB-C charging hub is a neat gadget that allows you to add on four full-size USB 3.0 ports that can handle data transfer at up to 5Gb/s, and still charge your device via the USB-C input at the bottom.
The Dodocool is a great-looking device, available with a gold or grey matt aluminium outer casing. It feels well made and is easy to use, with no drivers required.
Ucouso USB-C Hub with RJ4Gigabit Ethernet
But while Wi-Fi is convenient it’s not always the fastest, and if you use your MacBook or MacBook Pro in one place for a while then sometimes a wired Ethernet connection makes sense.
Ucouso makes a varied range of multiport USB-C adapters and hubs, including one that includes three old USB ports and an RJ4Gigabit Ethernet port at one end. It also sells a cheaper hub with only the Ethernet port.
OWC USB-C Dock
One of the unavoidable facts about the USB-C MacBook is the lack of ports. But, if you’re here, you probably don’t mind and have taken the plunge anyway. If you love the portability of the MacBook but also want the option of full-on ports and desktop usability, then the OWC dock is the best product on the market.
It’s designed to bring easy compatibility and maximum productivity to what is a limited laptop in some ways. The dock needs mains power to run, but it’s worth it for the pay off. You get full USB-C power to your machine, as well as (wait for it) USB Type-A ports, USB-C port, SD card reader, HDMI with 4K support, Ethernet port, audio port and a USB-C computer link port. So, a lot.
It allows you to connect a plethora of devices of all ages to your brand new laptop, as well as connect it to a display via HDMI. This is thankfully compatible with DisplayPort and can manage 4K options, so if you want you use your MacBook at home or in the office with four or five things plugged in, this is the option to go for.
It’s a tad complicated to set up and only comes with cables (power and USB-C to USB-C) but as long as you only use it at one workstation it’s the best all-out solution we’ve used.
Syncwire Nylon-Braided USB-C to USB-A Cable
Cables are one of the classic accessories where people like to save money – especially after they look at the prices Apple itself charges for replacements.
Unfortunately, being a cable cheapskate can sometimes be a false economy – you save money on each cable, but they break and require replacing so often that it doesn’t really work out any cheaper in the end. Luckily, Syncwire’s nylon-braided cables are impressively solid, without breaking the bank.
The nylon jacket will resist damage from moisture or bending, without sacrificing any flexibility, and it supports data transfer speeds up to 5Gbps, and charging output up to 3A.
Apple USB-C to Lightning Cable
Apple will have its reasons, but if you have an iPhone and a MacBook or new MacBook Pro, you can’t plug in your iPhone to your laptop. Even the latest iPhone ships with a Lightning to USB-A cable for old connections.
So, one of the only options is a USB-C to lightning cable like this. Once you take the hit, you’re likely not to need another iPhone to MacBook cable for a while.
The Nintendo Wii’s Default TV Cables
Shipping with the Nintendo Wii was a proprietary cable, the Wii AV Cable. This is designed to connect to the Nintendo Wii at one end, and the RCA TV inputs – red and white for audio, yellow for the picture – at the other.
Once connected, and the Wii switched on, you will be able to view the picture from the Wii using the TV/Video button on your remote. If this is unavailable or doesn’t work, look instead for Input Select, EXT, AUX, AV, or browse to a channel such as 00 or 99.
In the vast majority of cases, this brief instruction should be all you need to get your Nintendo Wii connected to a TV set.
The Nintendo Wii can also be enjoyed with an S-Video cable to your TV.
Using a SCART Connector with the Nintendo Wii
Want to use the SCART connector on your TV? If you’re limited for ports, this might be a good option, as the SCART is also easily extendable, supporting splitters and switched hubs for multiple connections, in some ways like a USB hub.
Well, no. But RCA to SCART adaptors are quite common, and very compact. A device like this comes with three inputs, red, white and yellow, and once the RCA cable is plugged into these, you can then connect the SCART to the back of your TV, switch Input mode, and on your TV browse to the SCART input channel.
You’re now ready to continue Lego Star Wars (or whatever game you’re currently playing).
Connecting the Nintendo Wii to a VGA Monitor
If you purchase a device like the one shown, you’ll begin by connecting the red and white audio connectors into the matching inputs, and the green, blue and red likewise. In the rare but occasional absence of matching color coding on the inputs, you’ll need to pay attention to the labels.
For audio, this means red is right, left is white. For video, green is Y, blue is Pb/Cb, and red Pr/Cr. With the cable connected at both ends, select the correct input mode on your remote control; note that if the TV has Progressive Scan, this will need to be enabled before you can see images from the Nintendo Wii. You’ll also need to open Settings > Wii Settings > Screen and set the TV Resolution setting to EDTV or HDTV (480p) and Widescreen Settings to Widescreen 16:9, clicking Confirm after both changes are made.
The Nintendo Wii and HDMI
Originally, the component cable option was the only way to connect the Wii reliably to a HDTV. Happily, it is now possible to use a HDMI converter for audio and video to produce a good quality image on a HD or HD Ready TV.
To get the best out of your HD equipment, be it a nice widescreen television, a Blu-ray player, a PS3, or an HD streaming set-top box, you need at least one HDMI cable. Or more…
Read More ) from your TV to your Wii, and view the output on the HDMI channel using Input Select or a similar option on your TV remote.
It’s a quick, simple solution to connecting your Nintendo Wii to any available HDTV using the most popular modern video connection standard.
The component video cable gives a much butter picture than the AV upscaler because in the end, it’s just low resolution AV. The PSis capable of much more. I’m glad Serioussamik, that read my post and got the right solution.
I can see you are already seeing the benefits of component video as you seem excited. I also am thankful you posted the results so others here reading may learn a thing or two. I know we have lurkers that wonder about these things.
One example of this are Blue
With a traditional cable, I may have needed to use something with 2gauge conductors. In other words, a thick, heavy cable that would be difficult to bend around tight corners and could put a lot of strain on the HDMI port of my projector. My 50’ RedMere cable used thinner, 2gauge wire making the whole cable thinner, lighter, and easier to bend around corners, which is great when you’re crawling around a hot attic with fiberglass in your ears.
Beyond cables, it is worth noting that the HDMI sending/receiving circuitry in your AV equipment also factors in, so a cable may narrowly pass a signal with one set of equipment, where it fails with another. A higher quality cable will provide a bit of system tolerance where HDMI circuitry may not be perfect.
In sum, there are quality differences between cables, but if the cable appears to be working properly (i.e. no visible artifacts), then spending more for an expensive cable won’t yield better picture or sound.
The first thing to remember about HDMI is that it is a digital standard. Unlike component video, composite video, S-video, or coaxial cable, HDMI signals don’t gradually degrade, or get fuzzy and lose clarity as the signal fades or interference grows. For digital signals like HDMI, as long as there is enough data for the receiver to put together a picture, it will form. If there isn’t, it will just drop off. While processing artifacts can occur and gaps in the signal can cause blocky effects or screen blanking, generally an HDMI signal will display whenever the signal successfully reaches the receiver. Claims that more expensive cables put forth greater video or audio fidelity are nonsense; it’s like saying you can get better-looking YouTube videos on your laptop by buying more expensive Ethernet cables. From a technical standpoint, it simply doesn’t make sense.
This doesn’t mean that all HDMI cables are created equal in all cases. HDMI includes multiple specifications detailing standards of bandwidth and the capabilities of the cable.
That said, there are cases where higher quality cables and going to lengths to maintain signal quality are important. They just aren’t cases that apply for most HDTV owners. If you’re going to run an HDMI cable for lengths longer than feet, you should be concerned about insulation to protect against signal degradation. It’s not an issue for 6-foot lengths of cable, but as the distance between media device and display increases, signal quality decreases and the more susceptible the signal becomes to magnetic interference. In fact, for distances of over 30 feet, the HDMI licensing board recommends either using a signal amplifier or considering an alternate solution, like an HDMI-over-Ethernet converter. When you’re running up against the maximum length, the greater insulation and build quality of more expensive cables can potentially improve the stability of your signal. However, if there’s a 30-foot gap between your Blu-ray player and your HDTV, you might want to rearrange some furniture. Or just use a technology designed for long distances.
It’s not too bad. Let’s dive right in.
Start by figuring out how much cable you are going to need. It is a lot easier to make the length of the cable before you put ends on them. The beauty of making your own cables is you can make them any length you want, so plan a head.
Take the RCA connector and slid it down till you feel the cap lightly snap into the connector. The bottom part of the connector is going in between the installation and shielding.
Take the first piece of the connector that was slid on to the cable way back before it was stripped and slide it over the shielding and connector. It should be firm at this point.
Take your crimper’s and crimp at the top of the shielding. You will need to make another crimp at the bottom since the crimper is not wide enough to do the entire thing.
Slide up the colored boot and you are done. That’s it. We told you it was easy. can be used for component, composite, and subwoofer cables. Once you get past the up front cost, it is very cheap to make these cables. Think of the tools as an investment as they will turn around and pay for themselves. There is no good way to make a HDMI, DVI, or S-Video due to the amount of wires that is involved. Besides, you can get cheap HDMI and DVI cables online and ’cause they are digital, as long as they are firm in inside of their female counterpart, they will work great. slightly different. They do require soldering and are a bit more time consuming, but still are not that bad.
You’ve reached this page from the
Yeah, we realize that the “HD revolution” already occurred years ago, but many in the gaming community aren’t exactly apt to follow trends, even when they represent a marked improvement. That’s right, some people still like the texture, quality and convenience that a simple yellow (video), white (left audio channel) and red (right audio channel) connection style brings. Nevertheless, the PlayStation doesn’t support this method, only HDMI and optical. (Note* – the same goes for the green, blue, red + yellow and red –style component cables as well.) In other words, yes, if you want to bask in the PS4’s glory, you’ll need a more modern set, preferably something extremely large, wide and as crisply detailed as possible.
USB charging cable
You’re not out of the woods yet, it would also be a great idea to pick up a microUSB 2.0 Charge Cable (like the one found here) which will allow you to both charge up your DualShock wireless controllers or any other types of devices which use the same kind of port (a lot of smartphones do, for example).
This is your shopping cart. As you add parts to your cart, you can review and order them here.
Search by part number, competitor part number, keyword or description.
Take a tour!
For most people the best wireless solution is to buy a Google Chromecast which costs as little as £30. This HDMI dongle plugs into your TV and connects to your Wi-Fi.
The devices has the ability to cast a tab of your choice in Chrome so it appears on the screen using the built-in cast feature. You can then visit websites, show photos and even watch video. Find out how to setup and use a Chromecast.
After years of Sonos, many AV manufacturers have decided to go after the potentially lucrative multiroom market. While most receivers now connect to the Net over Wi-Fi, it’s worth looking to a receiver that’s compatible with streaming services. While some receivers have their own proprietary apps — such as Yamaha’s MusicCast or Sony’s SongPal Link — some are also able to offer direct connection to popular apps such as Spotify Connect and Pandora.
Meanwhile, Bluetooth, AirPlay and now Google Cast are similar, but have some key differences. Bluetooth works with nearly every smartphone and tablet (including Apple devices) within a range of about 30 feet, but has somewhat diminished sound quality. AirPlay only works with Apple devices, with some exceptions. It offers superior, lossless audio quality, but requires your receiver to be connected to your home network. Meanwhile Google Cast is able to stream to multiple rooms, is compatible with both Android and (increasingly) iOS apps, and is also able to stream in higher-than-CD hi-res quality (24bit/96kHz).
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your av to hdmi converter wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of av to hdmi converter