Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best battery tester 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated January 1, 2020
Best battery tester of 2018
Customers need to be careful on how they spend their money on these products. The above tidbits will bring you closer to selecting battery tester that best serves your needs and as per your budget.
So this is not only going to give you an insight to the best battery tester of the 2018 but also those which are user friendly and easy to work with. Many models on the market may be confusing to a person who is shopping for their first time.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this battery tester win the first place?
I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I was completely satisfied with the price. Its counterparts in this price range are way worse.
Why did this battery tester come in second place?
This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price.
Why did this battery tester take third place?
This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. The material is incredibly nice to the touch. It has a great color, which will suit any wallpapers.
battery tester Buyer’s Guide
Apart from a compact design, this tester could help you analyze your battery with the information about cranking power, voltage charge, and how long your battery could survive. Likewise, it offers you a wider range of tests and the results base on many standards.
It also tests cranking conditions of Starter and alternator charging as well. A huge LCD display with contrast adjustment is another plus point. Also, this product does not require internal batteries to operate. Plus, you have a 2-year warranty.
In spite of those advantages, this battery tester might cause you some problems. As this is a multifunctional device, it is quite complicated to use. The advertised quick test is not true since they often rate cars in CCA. Last, there is a lack of customer service contacts.
Foxwell Battery Load Tester
Similar to the previous tester, this could perform well with many different types of batteries. The test of the charging system is taken to ensure the voltage output is still good. More importantly, the result data could be printed via the Bluetooth printer.
Everything has the pros and cons. Because this device carries out many functions that lead to a heavy menu on display. Likewise, it is sometimes difficult to connect to your Bluetooth printer which drove me crazy.
Solar Digital Battery and System Tester
This product is equipped with 12-volt battery system and tester and the capacity of 40 to 1200 CCA testing. CCA is the abbreviation of cold cranking amps which is used to measure the sufficiency of the battery to run your engine.
Also, it was made perfectly compatible with diverse batteries, for example, AGM Flat Plate, Flooded Acid, Gel Cell, or Spiral Wound. Its LCD might help you read the result clearly in different lighting environments.
Cartman Car Battery & Alternator Tester
This device works with 12-volt batteries only. Additionally, it provides you a LED display to show the state check with some brief notes on different types of checks you should pay attention to like battery check, alternator check, and charger check.
In fact, the product from Cartman might bring you some big disadvantages. The clips are not long and big enough to connect to your battery. The written instructions are quite bad due to its poor English. Sometimes, it could not check whether the alternator is still working or not.
Schumacher Battery Load Tester
This is an analog battery tester that could work with both volt and 12-volt batteries as well. It is designed to check battery condition, load, motor draw, and also bring you a diagnosis of the charging system.
On the other hand, the construction quality is quite inferior, in other words, it was cheaply made. Furthermore, this device does not have a durable lifelong, so you should consider carefully before making a decision.
Energizer’s Ultimate Lithium earns praise from both professionals and users for its performance and long shelf life. Professional comparison tests prove that these batteries are much longer-lived than other disposable batteries, particularly in high-drain devices such as cameras. They’re also lightweight and can function at extremely high or low temperatures. They last up to 20 years in storage, and users say they don’t leak the way alkaline batteries can.
Disposable batteries come in two main types: alkaline and lithium. Alkaline batteries are less expensive and are best suited for low-drain applications, while pricier lithium batteries are better for high-drain devices such as a camera flash. Depending on type, disposable batteries can retain their initial charge from to up to 20 years on the shelf — far longer than even the best rechargeable. If you need a size other than AA or AAA, there are more options available among disposable batteries than rechargeable ones.
In the United
AA cell sizes, as well as the 9-volt size required for many smoke detectors.
2,500 reviews, owners give it 4.stars out of overall, saying it’s long-lasting, lightweight, and ideal for use in cameras. They also like its long shelf life and ability to perform at low temperatures.
Solar BA40-1200 CCA Digital Battery Tester
This is a great battery tester that many people prefer using it because it is compatible with any type of batteries that are available nowadays. This tester is not only used for testing car battery only but also it can test a system of 40-1200 CCA. This device can provide an operating range of up to 7-1volts, and you can see results presented on an LED screen in any light conditions.
Actron CP761Battery Load Tester
This is one of the best car battery testers it comes with a very unique features among them is a cooling fan, which is important for long life of the device. It is suitable for 6v and 12v batteries. It is also capable of detecting starting problems and electrical problems in your car. It has a voltmeter and two rotary switches added to it.
Battery Manufacturers and their Battery Brands
You can also buy car batteries from local service stations and tune-up shops; however, the selection is limited and the stocks may not be fresh.
Difference between CCA and CA
CCA (cold-cranking amps) – indicate how much electrical power the car battery can deliver to the car’s starter engine, at zero degree Fahrenheit.
CA (cranking amps) – This is another measure of electric current in the battery, taken at 3degrees Fahrenheit or at freezing point. When seen on battery case or label, the CA rating is usually higher than the CCA rating.
When it works it is great
For guitars and effects that use the ring connection of a TRS (stereo) 1/4″ jack to ground the negative connection of an internal battery for turning on it works excellently. It first tells you the battery type you’ve set, then the voltage, and then it turns on the device and measures the current flow to estimate how many hours of operation you have left (ideal before a gig!). Works great on my Boss FDR-1, Boss GE-7, Boss AD-2, and Maxon OD-80(and likely all Tube Screamer clones). It does not work on my Boss RC-or TC Polytune For the OD-808, if you want the hours estimate to be accurate, you need to have its mechanical foot switch set to on because the LED draws more power than the rest of the effect which runs all the time once the input jack is inserted.
Doesn’t work in all active basses
A good deal on AAA batteries
There was no real difference in AAA battery performance between Energizer, Eneloop, Duracell, and these. These will probably be the cheapest, but if you see a better deal on another brand, they’ll serve you just as well.
Energizer, Eneloop, and Duracell also performed nearly identically, so it’s worth checking their prices before buying.
When we measured initial capacity by charging and discharging each battery three times and averaging the results, there was only an percent difference between the capacity of the best and worst brands. In this case, an percent spread is basically nothing. When we charged and discharged them another four dozen times—about 200 hours each—we also found that there was no drop in performance, or difference between brands, after the 50th cycle. We also tested which battery powered our favorite headlamps brightest and longest. After six hours, all four brands were dimming at a similar rate but still just barely lighting the way. It was long enough and close enough that the test ended in a tie.
Even after nine months on the shelf, all our batteries still had more energy left in them than any disposable AA battery has fresh from the factory.
In addition to technology improvements, the price of rechargeables has come down considerably. Even after including the cost of a new charger, your first set of eight AA batteries will pay for themselves in five to six recharge cycles compared with buying most name-brand disposables. And the benefits go beyond your wallet: Globally, over billion alkaline cells are made every year (PDF), and roughly half are purchased in the US (PDF). That’s an average of 4batteries per US household per year. Over four years, that would mean 1rechargeable batteries take the place of 18disposables—not a bad way to save some money (and the environment).
The only persistent drawback to rechargeables is that they still take a long time to recharge. Properly charging batteries takes time if you want to preserve their long-term performance—about eight hours for our AA pick. Technically, the faster you charge your batteries, the less life you’ll get out of them, though with modern batteries and chargers, the difference is likely negligible. There are many “fast chargers” available, but we don’t recommend them, as they degrade rechargeable battery life.
Instead of a faster charger, we recommend buying an extra set of batteries. Figure out what device takes the most batteries and buy that many extra. If you always keep the extras charged and sitting next to—not in!—your charger, they’ll be there when you need them. Rotating batteries this way is like having a perpetually stocked supply without going to the store.
How we picked
Batteries don’t require hours assessing industrial design or critiquing the user interface. They’re pretty straightforward, and they have to match a fairly precise set of dimensions. We wanted to find the best, most quantifiable value—a reliable mix of capacity, life, price, and availability.
There are a handful of different battery technologies out there right now, but the only ones that will truly replace your alkaline AAs are nickel-metal hydride AAs, commonly abbreviated as NiMH. (You can pronounce it “nim” and save some trouble.) Specifically, look for new NiMH batteries that advertise “low self-discharge,” “LSD,” or even “Precharged!” that will hold a charge for months or years as opposed to mere weeks.
Testing methods and results
We found our picks through a mix of standardized measurements and real-world performance. Standardized measurements help us get hard, comparable numbers for how much energy a battery can hold, how long it can hold it, and how it performs after constant charging and discharging. That’s helpful for relative comparisons, but to relate that to the real world we also load batteries into flashlights, headlamps, RC cars, and anything else we can think of to demonstrate head-to-head performance variations.
Our first bench test was straightforward. We discharged four batteries from each brand so we’d clear out whatever charge was left from sitting on the shelf. Then we charged them and discharged them three times to average the results. The speed at which a battery is charged and discharged actually impacts the amount of energy it will store, so we standardized both rates to match the gentle rates that simple chargers often use. This meant charging at 500 mA (.5A) for AA batteries and 400 mA (.A) for AAA batteries. Depending on your use, you could be discharging batteries quickly (e.g., photography lighting, RC cars) or slowly (e.g., wireless keyboard). Because AA batteries are likely the choice for more-demanding devices, we discharged them at 1,000 mA (A) rate, but we stuck to just a 400 mA discharge for the smaller AAA batteries. With such a huge range of possible uses, it’s impossible for us to have data for all of them, but a standardized test like this is still useful for comparing batteries to one another.
Care and use
With the right charger, your batteries will mostly take care of themselves. LSD NiMH batteries don’t need be kept in the refrigerator or freezer, you don’t need to drain them before recharging, and they don’t need trickle charging to hold power. If you use one of our recommended chargers, the only care they need is to be taken off when they’re done charging to avoid power leaking into and overcharging them.
Long-term test notes
We used the Energizer Recharger Power Plus batteries in our mice and keyboards for most of 201without any problems or unexpectedly short run times. Because NiMh batteries have a different voltage curve than alkaline batteries, we have noticed that simple battery meters, like the one that warns of low battery on macOS when using an Apple Magic Mouse or first-gen Magic Trackpad/Keyboard, can be confused about how full they are. We’ve learned to ignore the low-battery warnings and to continue to use the same batteries for a couple more weeks—if not months. Overall, the charge capacity life of our picks should be three to four times that of a standard disposable alkaline, but no matter what brand you use, be prepared for charge meters expecting alkalines to behave a little funky with NiMHs.
The new Powerex Precharged AA batteries performed well in all our bench tests, with 2,470 mAh (Wh) available for discharge of 2,600 mAh (3.Wh) of stated capacity. That’s over 2percent higher than either of our picks in terms of raw capacity, but you’re really paying a premium for that extra energy. The new batteries are retailing for roughly a dollar more per battery than our top pick—a huge difference if you want to stock up. If you have a specific need for the extra capacity, and don’t mind the cost, we’re sure they’d be great. But they’re just not necessary for what most people need around the house.
The AA Duracell Rechargeables were the only batteries to have a higher available capacity than the packaging claimed—2,47compared with 2,400 mAh—but they were in sixth place on our flashlight test, lasting just 2:4Finding the current generation for sale anywhere other than Walmart is surprisingly hard, and their retail price averages about 4cents more per battery than our pick.
The EBL 8-pack High Capacity 2,800-mAh Ni-MH Rechargeable Batteries are among the least expensive AA batteries we’ve found, and they had the highest available capacity in all our tests. At an average of 2,48mAh (Wh), an EBL bests our pick by a good 1percent. But because of the technological trade-off between capacity and longevity, we’re not willing to put much stock in their cycle claims: 1,200 in some places and 1,500 in others.
The Panasonic Eneloop Pro line is a higher-capacity, lower-cycle-life version of the AA Eneloops, rated for 2,550 mAh and 500 cycles compared with the standard 2,000/2,100. But an Eneloop Pro is the most expensive of our group, offering only percent more available capacity than our pick despite costing about 2percent more. Higher capacity and lower cycle life is important in some situations—photographers might want to in squeeze every flash they can between battery swaps. In general, though, this isn’t a good trade-off for most people and isn’t worth the premium price.
Special thanks to Jamie Tennies and RC Hobby and Raceway for soldering our test packs and giving us track time for our testing.
Schumacher BT-100 100 amp Battery Load Tester *
Basically, you connect the tester, read the voltage, then start the bike and see if the voltage drops.
The the CCA levels are read off one section of the display, shown on the battery tester in the image above. Just know that motorcycle batteries are generally around 175-22CCA and go from there.
But the display is somewhat difficult to read, so you only get an estimation of the voltage.
The clamps are much too big for most motorcycle batteries.
Use a Multimeter Instead
Then hold the negative (black) probe on the ground/negative terminal of the battery and the red probe on the plus or power terminal of the battery.
Your battery should read somewhere above 12.to 12.volts or so.
Next, to check battery load, start the bike with the probes still attached to the terminals. You can either connect them with alligator clips or have someone hold the probes in place.
If you have done any research on how batteries work or what you should look for when selecting a battery, you’re probably buried in information, some of which is conflicting. At BatteryStuff, we aim to clear that up a bit. You’ve most likely heard the term KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid). I’m going to attempt to explain how lead acid batteries work and what they need, without burying you with a bunch of needless technical data. I have found that battery data will vary somewhat from manufacturer to manufacturer, so I will do my best to boil that data down. This means I may generalize a bit, while staying true to purpose.
The lead acid battery has been used commercially for over 100 years. The same chemical principle that’s being used to store energy is basically the same as our great grandparents used.
A battery is like a piggy bank. If you keep taking out and putting nothing back, you’ll have nothing left. Present day chassis battery power requirements are huge. Consider today’s vehicle and all the electrical devices that must be supplied with power. All these electronics require a reliable source power, and poor battery condition can cause expensive electronic component failure. Did you know that the average auto has 1pounds of wire in the electrical system? Look at RVs and boats with all the electrical gadgets that require power. It wasn’t long ago when trailers or motor homes had only a single 12-volt house battery. Today it’s standard to recreational vehicle batteries powering inverters up to 4000 watts. Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Life span depends on usage—usually to 4months—yet only 30% of all batteries actually reach the 48-month mark. You can extend your battery life by hooking it up to a solar charger during the off months.
If you can grasp the basics, you’ll have fewer battery problems and will gain greater battery performance, reliability and longevity. I suggest you read the entire tutorial; however, I ‘ve indexed all the information for easy reference.
A Few Basics
The lead acid battery is made up of plates, lead, and lead oxide (various other elements are used to change density, hardness, porosity, etc.), with a 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water solution. This solution is called electrolyte, which causes a chemical reaction that produces electrons. When you test a battery with a hydrometer, you are measuring the amount of sulfuric acid in the electrolyte. If your reading is low, that means the chemistry that makes electrons is lacking. So where did the sulfur go? It’s resting on the battery plates so that when you recharge the battery, the sulfur returns to the electrolyte.
You must think safety when you’re working around, and with, batteries. Remove all jewelry. (After all, you wouldn’t want to melt your watchband while you’re wearing it!) The hydrogen gas that batteries make when charging is very explosive. We have seen several instances of batteries blowing up and drenching everything in sulfuric acid. That was no fun, and would have been a good time to use those safety goggles hanging on the wall. Heck, you could even break out your disco outfit. Polyester isn’t affected by sulfuric acid, but anything with cotton will be eaten up. If you don’t feel the need to make a fashion statement, just wear junk clothes—after all, polyester is still out of style.
When doing electrical work on vehicles, it’s best to disconnect the ground cable. Just remember that you’re messing with corrosive acid, explosive gases and hundreds of amps of electrical current.
Basically, there are two types of lead acid batteries (along with three sub categories). The two main types are starting (cranking), and deep cycle (marine/golf cart). The starting battery (SLI starting lights ignition) is designed to deliver quick bursts of energy (such as starting engines) and therefore has a greater plate count. The plates are thinner and have somewhat different material composition.
The deep cycle battery has less instant energy, but greater long-term energy delivery. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can survive a number of discharge cycles. Starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications because the thinner plates are more prone to warping and pitting when discharged. The so-called Dual Purpose Battery is a compromise between the two types of batteries, though it is better to be more specific if possible.
Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually half of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500 CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 1seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge.
Improved performance when watching video
Now, onto a crucial part of the iPhone 7: the battery life. This is a tricky one, as has Apple said it’s increased the battery life and efficiency through the improvements to the iPhone and the AFusion chip.
The latter is a key part, as it’s designed to make the new iPhone separate into two task machines: on the one hand, two cores can run the harder stuff, such as video editing, multiple background processes, photo manipulation etc.
What’s not clear is which set of cores do what – it would be great to know how to activate the lower-power cores only, because during our tests we didn’t see any evidence of great battery life at all.
Every day by around five o’clock things get dicey in terms of battery. Looking at the stats, the reasons were many and varied: one day it was Spotify running in the background that was taking its toll, the next the use of the phone as a portable hotspot, and the next Facebook was pulling the power, or WhatsApp.
There was also a lot of ‘Home & Lock Screen’ taking up the power, which doesn’t make a whole lot of sense given how short an amount of time we spent there. Is that just the screen being fired up? Either way, it takes a decent chunk of the battery.
In short, it’s hard to see where Apple has improved the battery life on the iPhone 7, because despite a 10% increase in battery life over the previous model, it was hard to see where that improvement was coming from.
After many weeks of using the iPhone 7, there were very few days where the charger wasn’t needed at some point. On the weekends, where using the phone a little harder, it would be only 15:30 before the phone would need another boost.
There’s no reason that this should be such an effort, and it’s not something we’d ever encounter on newer Android phones – Apple needs to get up to the level of its rivals.
It’s actually a really poor battery experience from Apple, and shows that the brand is hamstrung by the amount of space it’s got to put in more power. But this shouldn’t be so hard to do when the phone has fewer cores (and two designed to help reduce power drain) and a lower-res screen… by rights we should have a two-day iPhone, where we’re stuck with one that can just last a day.
The charging speed of the iPhone is decent though – Apple’s not put a number on it, nor made this the big feature on stage, but if y.u plug your iPhone into a faster 2.1A iPad charging block it’ll juice up the handset faster.
That’s not something a lot of people will do, or even be aware they can do, but in 30 minutes they’ll get around a 25% boost in battery power, with that absorption rate maintained until later in the charge cycle.
Later on, when the battery is getting close to topped up, the charging definitely slows down, although it does trickle over the line eventually.
We’ve seen other people claim excellent battery life for the iPhone 7, but we can’t work out how that’s happening. Even trying different power-use levels on the phone rarely led to better battery life.
The iPhone Plus is certainly better at holding on to battery – which you’d expect given it’s got a larger power pack inside.
However, you can see how well it’s done in this video – showing a pretty good result. You can also see that Apple’s not done a huge amount to the power management of the iPhone since the 6S – it’s only minutes more capable, but it does have a more colorful and bright screen, which is worth the sacrifice.
We ran our usual battery test (HD video at full brightness for 90 minutes) and that’s where you can see how the iPhone has improved: where the previous iPhone 6S managed to drop 30%, the new handset only lost 23% for the same test.
It’s not as good as some other phones, but for the iPhone lover (who doesn’t want a phablet) this is the phone to go for.
Does the iPhone have decent battery life? Simply put: no. We’ve needed to charge it sooner than most phones of its ilk, and while we get the trade-offs needed to create this phone (the thinner design, for example) it still feels odd that Apple’s not gone all-out on battery life yet.
Screen Size & Component Considerations
Generally, tablets with smaller screens (in the 7-to-8-inch range) and with lower resolutions will use less power, because the screen is usually the most power-hungry component in a mobile device. And fewer pixels and a smaller surface area that needs to be lit up generally means lower power consumption.
Also, something to consider: Larger-screened tablets have, by definition, bigger bodies, which means there’s more room behind the screen for a bigger battery. So chances are, the devices with the best battery life will either be high-end compact slates, or larger-screen tablets with a bulge on one side for a big battery, like various Lenovo Yoga Tab models, many of which also include a kickstand for propping up the device without the need for a separate stand for hands-free viewing.
The chip at the heart of a tablet can also significantly affect battery life. Newer models tend to be more efficient than older options, all else being equal. And some chips are designed in a so-called “big.LITTLE” configuration, with one core (or a set of cores) designed for power-hungry tasks such as gaming or running demanding apps, while a second group of cores are clocked lower and designed to sip less power when handling less-demanding tasks: media playback, or fetching e-mail in the background.
Several big-name chip makers, including Samsung, Qualcomm, and MediaTek, use this big.LITTLE architecture with at least some of their devices. While this configuration can be great for eking out better battery life for media consumption, it can also lead to wildly varying performance, depending on what you do most often with your device. For instance, the Nvidia Shield Tablet uses a big.LITTLE chip (Nvidia’s own Tegra K1). This helped the tablet achieve a respectable 1hours and 2minutes of longevity in our video rundown test. But when gaming on that slate, battery life falls off much more quickly.
How to Eke Out Extra Power
Often times, you may have some kind of feeling that your battery isn’t good anymore, and you want to be sure before buying a new one… Below are a few ways you can test your golf cart battery to make sure it is still working.
Use a load tester: One quick way to test your golf cart batteries is by using a simple tool known as a load tester. This load tester is a voltmeter which has a simple DC heating coil connected to it.
By using a hydrometer: If you have a hydrometer around, you can simply use it to test your golf cart battery. However, it’s not as easy as using a load tester. If you have no prior knowledge, then you should take it to an expert.
Have you chosen the battery that meets your criteria? If you have, then you need to read the next part to know how you can clean your cart to make it long lasting.
Peg Perego Background Info
Peg Perego is a world leader (along with Mattel and the Power Wheels brand) in manufacturing kids ride on toys. They licensed the rights to make replica John Deere Gators and tractors, Polaris four-wheeler’s, and the Ducati Monster motorcycle to name a few. Kids aged 3-spend hours driving around the yard pretending to be their favorite racer, movie star, or their own dad working the farm. Inevitably, there comes a time when the fun ends and a new battery is needed in order to keep the peace. Hopefully we will shed some light on your options. Your first and maybe obvious choice is to simply buy a new battery system from Peg Perego or one of their licensed dealers, but as you already discovered (or will soon discover) this option becomes rather expensive.
An alternative is to replace the battery inside or under the protective safety cover. If you have any ability and want to save a bunch of cash, you will see there is no need to replace the entire battery system. Continue reading to discover how to change the battery and what you can expect once you have decided to go this route.
You will save 40% or more compared to the original Peg Perego battery system.
Additional 12V Information
Breakage – Should you need to replace your IAKB050protective cover Impact Battery has these in stock. The protective cover is only the blue plastic case surrounding the battery and does NOT include the wire harness or battery. Also, these covers fit only the 12V 12Ah (12V 15Ah) batteries and NOT the smaller IAKB001They are also designed so that you can slide the battery in via the side of the case rather than having to pop open the side strap as described above.
Upgrade – If you would like to upgrade your IAKB0018-amp Peg Perego battery to the larger and longer lasting 15-amp you can. You must reuse the wire harness from the original battery system and purchase the Blue Protective Cover along with the replacement IAKB050(UB12150) battery.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your battery tester wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of battery tester
- №1 — Tenergy T-333 Universal Battery Tester LCD Display Multi-Purpose Checker for Batteries
- №2 — D-FantiX Battery Tester
- №3 — Amprobe BAT-200 Battery Tester