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Best crabgrass preventer 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated September 1, 2020
Best crabgrass preventer of 2018
Customers need to be careful on how they spend their money on these products. If you get well acquainted with these basics, you shouldn’t have a problem choosing a crabgrass preventer that suits your need. I’ve based my selection methodology on customer feedback, the size, functionality, and budget to meet various demands. Like choosing clothes or cosmetics, choosing crabgrass preventer should be based on your purpose, favorite style, and financial condition.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this crabgrass preventer win the first place?
The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. The rear part fits perfectly! It is mounted really tight and reliable. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product.
Why did this crabgrass preventer come in second place?
The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office.
Why did this crabgrass preventer take third place?
This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. The material is incredibly nice to the touch. It has a great color, which will suit any wallpapers. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time.
crabgrass preventer Buyer’s Guide
Depending upon the specific type, these herbicides work before, during and after a weed emerges. A pre-emergence herbicide should be applied a week or two before any weeds are seen. An emergence herbicide should be applied just as the weed begins coming out of the soil, and a post emergence herbicide is designed to kill a weed after it is already growing. All weed killers fall into one of these categories.
Persistence essentially means how long weeds will be killed after a herbicide application. Non-persistent weed killers will not last longer than the day after application. On the other hand, persistent types can be made to kill weeds for extended periods after the initial application. If you want an area to be free of weeds for any length of time (such as pathways) a persistent weed killer would work best for this type of application.
Chemical herbicides run the gamut of characteristics. They can be contact killers, emergence killers, some manufactured for a specific weed type meaning they are highly selective, and some will have a persistence factor lasting years. They are also inexpensive to use, but caution must be taken around waterways, ponds and rivers as they are highly polluting and will kill off desirable water vegetation and the surrounding aquatic wildlife.
The newest herbicides are made from natural or organic substances like citric acid, garlic, clove oil and vinegar. Generally, they are of the contact variety and they are completely non-selective, meaning that they will kill any plant they touch. However, these are the safest herbicides available today, and many can be used around kids and pets without harm.
Pre-mix liquids are also popular for farmers. In this case, they are mostly used as pre-emergence types or selective weed killers during the growing season. Tanks of herbicide chemicals are mixed with water, than distributed by mechanical means while pulled behind a tractor.
A contact spray can be used for growing weeds, but for long lasting weed killing, use a pre-emergent granular. You can lay on a pre-emergent granular before you mulch the path, and if you mulch yearly, also lay down some pre-emergent granular each time. A highly persistent type would be perfect if you are constructing a pathway. You could broadcast it beneath the first layer of mulch, and you would not have to worry about sprouting weeds for years.
Compare-N-Save Concentrate Grass and Weed Killer
When it’s mixed properly with water, this container of grass and weed killer can make 8gallons of spray that’s ready to go. That much mixture can cover more than 25,000 square feet of lawn.
You won’t have to wait all summer to see results from this product – you’ll start to see crabgrass dying off in to days after you apply it.
If you’re trying to fit in spraying this weed killer before the rain hits, you’ll want to know that it dries and becomes rainproof in hours.
Gardeners who want to use this crabgrass killer around their fruit and vegetable gardens need to closely follow the directions on the label.
Since this killer is a post-emergent spray, it won’t stop future growth – it will just kill your existing crabgrass, and you should be aware that this herbicide will kill all your plants – not just your crabgrass. So you’ll want to spray it with caution.
BASF Drive XLRHerbicide KILLS CRABGRASS
When you’re looking for the best crabgrass killer on the market, you should consider Drive XLRIt’s a liquid formulation, which is water based, and it helps you get your crabgrass problem under control in a jiffy.
One single container of Drive XLRwill treat a full acre. It is taken up by the plant quickly, which means those plants will be eliminated soon after you apply this solution.
It will dry in less than hour, which means you won’t have to be overly concerned about checking the weather forecast – a quick look at the sky to see any rain clouds should be able to tell you when it’s safe to apply.
This product can kill crabgrass in one application, which means you won’t have to spend your whole summer battling against your crabgrass – you can take care of it in one day.
Testing Your Soil
In order to know which nutrients are required by your lawn, a soil test is essential. You can either buy a home test from the garden center (which aren’t extremely accurate) or send in a soil sample to the closest cooperative extension office.
The results will tell you exactly what chemicals to add to your soil. They will also tell you if your soil is alkaline, acidic, or neutral. The pH of your soil is a measure of soil alkalinity (sweetness) or soil acidity (sourness). A pH scale goes from 0 to 14, with being neutral. A reading below is acidic, and a reading above is alkaline.
Alkaline soils (a pH over 7) are primarily “sweet” clay soils with a high pH level that usually contain an overabundance of calcium, magnesium, and sodium. Alkaline soils can be improved by adding ground rock sulfur to the soil to increase acidity, as well as a fertilizer that’s high in phosphorus.
Acidic soil (a pH below 7) could have too much manganese, iron, or aluminum, which might tie up phosphorus and make your soil too acidic for lawn growth. The easiest way to raise an acidic soil level is to add some pulverized limestone to your soil. The chemicals in limestone that can neutralize your acidic soil are calcium and magnesium carbonate. Be careful not to add too much lime, or you might end up with zinc, manganese, and iron deficiencies, or even a nasty overgrowth of bacteria. If you have a neutral soil (a pH of 7), congratulations! You can choose any fertilizer that strikes your fancy.
Weed killer concentrate
Most weed killers come in form of a concentrate that requires dilution. The level of concentration determines the quantity of the solution that can be made out of a unit. For instance, most weed killers have a concentration level of gallon to 8gallons of water which can treat about 25,000 square feet piece of land. However, the level of concentration varies with the price, therefore, the stronger the concentration the more expensive it is. On the same note, even though the highly concentrated are very effective, they are a bit dangerous and require a proper handling.
Organic vs Inorganic
The main difference between organic and inorganic weed killer is that the organic is made from natural ingredients whereas inorganic are produced by humans in the laboratory set up. The organic works by waxing the cuticles that results to dehydration since the cuticles in plants cells helps in maintaining the water supply in the plant. On the other hand, the inorganic have chemicals that literally burn the leaves and roots of the weeds making the plant cells to dry.
Correct timing of the application is key.
Crabgrass germination occurs when the soil temperature has been in the 60-degree range for a few days. Soil temperatures in the Quad-City area late last week were in the high 40s, so it is still early.
Another guide on when to apply crabgrass pre-emergent is “before the forsythia blossoms fall,” and that hasn’t happened yet, either, although the shrubs began blooming last week.
If you want a calendar date, Iowa State University Extension and Outreach is recommending these general times: April 12-2in southern parts of the states, April 1to May in central parts and April 2to May 1in the northern portions.
Applying liquid weed killer is not very difficult but you can expect to take a few hours for the average yard. Additionally you have two choices you can make when applying liquid weed killer. The traditional method which I use means buying concentrate weed killer and diluting it in a garden sprayer.
When you use a garden sprayer for killing weeds on your entire lawn you want to buy a canister that is large enough to carry a good amount of solution and one that is small enough that you are not throwing your back out as you are carrying it for a few hours.
I like to buy the gallon sized sprayers because they give me the best weight to benefit ratio. Honestly if you carry a two gallon container around your yard for a few hours it will begin to pull on your shoulder and back so you might want to go with a smaller 1.gallon or even a gallon or you can buy the larger gallon one and only fill it half way.
Once you find the right brand of concentrate you can dilute it and apply it.
I always cut my lawn before I begin applying any weed killer and then do not cut it for at least days. It will take at least days for the weeds to start browning up and letting you know the killer is doing its work. You want to leave it on the weed as long as you can so it gets sucked down into the roots.
I suggest that you pick a point in the corner of your yard and walk backwards as you apply the weed killer. This will reduce the amount of overspray that gets on your face, legs, clothes and shoes. It is best to find the wind direction too and start at the point in your yard where wind is blowing away and walk back from there.
Concentrate in a garden hose adapter is another choice. It eliminates the need to purchase a garden sprayer. This is an option for many people but I do not like the fact that so much water is used during the application. I have found much better results with a concentrate and sprayer however this method goes much faster and could be used on lawns that are in serious trouble just to get the weed killing process started.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your crabgrass preventer wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of crabgrass preventer
- №1 — Scotts Halts Crabgrass & Grassy Weed Preventer
- №2 — Scotts Turf Builder Halts Crabgrass Preventer with Lawn Food
- №3 — JONATHAN GREEN & SONS 12350 5M Crabgrass Preventer