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Best gaffers tape 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated October 1, 2019
Best gaffers tape of 2018
So this is not only going to give you an insight to the best gaffers tape of the 2018 but also those which are user friendly and easy to work with. The table below summarizes features, and below you’ll find more detailed reviews of each good.
Now, let’s get to the gist of the matter: which are the best gaffers tape for the money? You must have heard that the best gaffers tape should allow you to save money, right? Sure, but that’s not the only reason you should consider getting one.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
№1 – Gaffers Tape – 2 Inch by 40 Yards in Black – Get 33% More! High End Professional Grade – Gaffer Tape is the Perfect Alternative to Duct Tape
Why did this gaffers tape win the first place?
I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days.
№2 – REAL Professional Premium Grade Gaffer Tape by Gaffer Power – Made in the USA – Black 2 Inch X 30 Yards – Heavy Duty Gaffers Tape Plus – 11.5 mils – Better than Duct Tape – Powerful Adhesive Tape
Why did this gaffers tape come in second place?
I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture.
Why did this gaffers tape take third place?
This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great!
gaffers tape Buyer’s Guide
Gareth Branwyn is a freelance writer and the former Editorial Director of Maker Media. He is the author or editor of over a dozen books on technology, DIY, and geek culture. He is currently a contributor to Boing Boing, Wink Books, and Wink Fun. And he has a new best-of writing collection and “lazy man’s memoir,” called Borg Like Me.
Properties of Gaffers Tape
Gaffers tape, also known as gaff tape or gaffer’s tape, is a cloth tape, typically made of cotton. It uses a tough, rubber adhesive that is fairly resistant to extreme conditions. The adhesive comes off of surfaces more cleanly than many other types of ‘tough tape’, doing less damage and leaving less residue behind. The tape itself has a high tensile strength, but it is also pressure sensitive, which allows the tape to be torn neatly into pieces rather than needing a cutting utensil.
It’s often confused with duct tape, but duct tape is typically made from plastic rather than cloth and the adhesive in duct tape isn’t intended to be removed well.
History of Gaff Tape
This tape was originally developed during World War by Johnson and Johnson. The original purpose was as a medical tape, but soldiers quickly found themselves using it for sealing ammunition boxes to keep out debris and moisture.
The IPG silver waterproofing repair tape is perfect for both indoor and outdoor usage. It is a low VOC, 1inches thick, pressure sensitive tape. It provides a durable water resistant grip to almost all surfaces. The product is suitable for usage in damp and wet surfaces like boats, pool equipment, trailers, etc. The repair tape perfectly seals all leaks and gaps as it forms a water-tight bond which acts as a seal.
ER Self-Fusing Tape
ER Self-Fusing Silicone Tape can be used in emergency repairs in various areas. This tape works perfectly for automotive repair, plumbing, marine applications and various other areas where water cannot be avoided. It comes with Silicone rubber material, this provides resistant to different solvents, chemicals and also provides resistance to heat. At room temperature, it can bond itself within 2hours. The ER Self-Fusing Tape seals leaks under pressure. The tape can withstand a maximum pressure of 700psi. The operating temperature ranges from -8to +500 degrees Fahrenheit.
Tape Ninja Waterproof Gaffer Tape
Tape Ninja Waterproof Gaffer Tape is a 30-yard roll of cloth tape with a matte finish. The tape has a high tensile strength, flexible, easy to tear and most importantly, it is waterproof. The tape comes quite handy and can replace Duct Tapes in areas of use. The Tape Ninja Waterproof Gaffer Tape has an advantage over the Duct Tapes as it leaves no sticky residue or doesn’t catch fire. Due to its matte finish, it doesn’t reflect light like other tapes. The tape can be used in almost any weather and will keep your seams, cable connections, etc. safe.
X-Treme Tape Self Fusing Tape
X-Treme Tape Self Fusing Tape has incredible strength, and the strength is a contribution from both its thickness and the unique silicone formula that adds to the bonding characteristics of the tape. The tape has more thickness than competing brands, and hence it has an upper notch over all other rival brands. The tape can handle temperatures up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. The tape is water resistant and resists weathering.
Scotch’s Waterproof Colored Tape
Scotch’s Waterproof Colored Tape is super thin waterproof colored tapes. They are made of vinyl plastic. These are different from other tapes because it is extra flexible and even moisture resistant. The tapes can be used to repair and even decorate at various occasions. It comes in different color varieties to choose from.
Service your suspension
There’s less grip in winter, so you need your suspension at its optimum. Make sure you replace old, worn seals because you need to keep winter mud out, and on a wet ride it’ll be harder to see if there is any oil weeping from those seals. Watch our videos on suspension service on our website or get the pros to do it for you.
Moto foam is a lightweight foam designed to prevent mud from clogging and stop your bike getting heavier. Start with the bottom of your fork steerer, any gaps around the suspension linkage, and under the saddle — stuff in the foam and tape it off.
It’s even stronger at taking off finishes and leaving gunk compared to duct tape.
Instead, we are going to use gaffers tape. 2″ is the standard because you can tape extension cord or a couple of mic cables with just strip.
It doesn’t leave goo or gunk on cables, it doesn’t rip up finishes and even leaves paint on walls if you’re careful and don’t rip it off.
Across and Through Low-Traffic and Backstage Areas
When dealing with a low-traffic or backstage area, you don’t need to go overboard with the tape, since it’s not a public area.
The first step, as always, is to lay your cable out roughly along the path you want to tape.
Starting at one end of this trajectory, place a strip of gaff tape that covers the cable as well as 3-inches of floor to either side.
Next, do the same thing at the other end of the stretch of cable, whether that is feet away or 100.
By taping the one end first, then moving to the other end, you are able to straighten the cable out before the 2nd piece of tape.
Across and Through High-Traffic and Public Areas
Taping in public areas is going to require much more tape, but it is completely necessary and worth it.
Even when running cables again walls in public area, you need to at least use some strips of tape to keep your cable in place.
When going around corners, make sure to place a strip of tape every time the cable changes direction.
Wrapping it Up…
Before you wrap up your cable, we’ve got to take care of our tape.
Now, because gaffer’s tape is awesome, it sticks to itself very well.
When it does come time to take up your cables, it is essential that you first pull up the tape, then the cable. At first, it seems like a boatload of extra work, especially at the end of a long night.
Many economical monolights only use a 60 or 100w modeling lamp, very often a household incandescent bulb, which does a poor job in bright ambient light. Halogen is more efficient. Ideally the modeling lamp should track the output of the flash to give you a truer sense of the lighting and contrast. That’s called proportional modeling, or tracking. The modeling light normally dims or quenches momentarily when the flash pops so that it doesn’t affect exposure or color balance (a low-wattage lamp should not be a concern).
While a select few monolights come with a permanently attached reflector, most are sold with a removable dish. The basic reflector usually accommodates the shaft of an umbrella. There are other options, especially useful when employing multiple lights. For instance, you might want to use a background reflector (to throw a graduated wash of light on a backdrop) or a conical snoot (for spotlighting or as a hairlight). When using a typical reflector, you usually have the option of adding a honeycomb grid (for a different degree of spotlighting) or barn doors (which control spill or concentrate the light over a specific area of the set). Many pros prefer to use black wrap (pliable metal sheets commercially sold under the name Cinefoil) in place of a snoot or barn doors or even as an adjunct, to further control the light. It wraps around the metal reflector and is held in place with gaffer’s tape. Other options include a softbox, which requires an adapter (“speed”) ring. Keep in mind that popular third-party softbox manufacturers may not support every monolight out there and you may have to choose from a limited selection. If you anticipate using fancy accessories, choose a monolight accordingly.
The back panel is where the AC cord usually plugs in and where the controls are often found (rarely on a side panel). The most critical function is the power variator, which adjusts flash output. Better, more robust units provide light ratio control that is continuous (stepless) or incremental in 1/stops, within a five-stop range, or better still six stops (down to 1/3power) or more. Also note that, with rare exception, lowering flash output affects color balance, producing a cooler (bluer) light. However, reducing power also dramatically shortens flash duration and recycling times, which more than makes up for any color shift.
Now, here’s where modern technology steps in. We are increasingly seeing digital circuitry replacing mechanical parts. Microprocessor circuitry often translates into more reliably repeatable output from shot to shot. Of equal importance, normally when powering down to a lower output level, you have to manually pop the strobe to “dump” the accumulated charge built up by the capacitors. Digital units should dump that excess charge automatically. This way you won’t accidentally overexpose the next shot–which might be the one with the best facial expression in a portrait shoot.
Many monolights support a 6v (or less) triggering voltage (verify before purchase), making them safe to use with any popular D-SLR via the camera’s X-sync terminal (where applicable)–using the supplied sync cord. Some cameras also support higher voltages. That said, an easy way around sync voltage concerns–and one increasingly employed, especially when there is no X-sync terminal on the camera to begin with–is to remotely trigger the strobe. A camera’s built-in flash can be used to trigger a monolight (via a built-in photocell). While doubtful that this tiny flash will affect exposure, you might want to watch for undue reflections off the subject. And of course the camera must be set to a suitable flash X-sync setting and set to Manual Exposure mode (use a flash meter or the camera histogram and/or evaluate the image on a computer monitor).
Even if you use a sync cable between the camera and monolight, the addition of other monolights makes the use of additional wiring impractical. Either way, the monolights may provide alternative choices to hard wiring. Besides photocell activation, the monolight may offer infrared or radio remote triggering. Even where the infrared or radio receiver is built-in, the transmitter is still an optional component. Of course, you can always buy a transmitter and receiver set separately.
Other Features To Look For
Size and weight are often an issue and directly related to output (within a product line). Hence, think twice before splurging on a 1000 ws monolight, and consider all that heft when packaged in a two- or three-light kit. For a home studio, I’ve found that a 300 ws unit is surprisingly versatile. The ws (watt-second) rating (or joules) defines the stored energy available to a studio flash unit, regardless of the attached reflector, umbrella, softbox, or other light modifier, just as a 60w incandescent bulb is 60 watts regardless of the fixture used, in contrast to a guide number, which is affected by all these factors.
While it makes little or no difference what the monolight’s housing is made of (metal or plastic), fan cooling is often expected in heavy-duty and higher-powered units. If you don’t expect to run the lights mercilessly, air-cooled units should be fine. For that matter, overheat protection is a worthwhile safety feature. And there are too many other subtleties that set one monolight apart from another for us to discuss here–ask your photo dealer about these.
Clearly, the more expensive units are more robust and more versatile, with a broader range of high-tech features and high-powered accessories. But you don’t need to spend a lot to achieve good results. Consider what you’ll be shooting and how often, and how demanding each photo shoot will be–and then invest wisely in a monolight system that will go the distance with you.
I was faced with a dilemma recently when Syntace sent me their new XC wheelset with super-wide 35-millimeter ID rims. I wanted to convert them immediately to tubeless for the review, but the widest Stans No-Tubes kits I had in my personal stash would not span the monster rims. Help came from an unusual source. The CEO of One of the world’s most prestigious carbon wheel makers mentioned that they tested a number of wheel sealing tapes and discovered that over-the-counter Gorilla Tape performed better than anything they found. The wheel maker ships its tubeless wheels with Gorilla Tape – albeit, custom cut and rolled to exact specifications – but Gorilla Tape nonetheless. I had heard the same tip from Pinkbike readers, so I bought a roll and the stuff worked beautifully. So here it is, another Ghetto Tech Tuesday.
Now it is time to give your hoop a costume!
There are many places you can buy hoop tape but you want to make sure it is strong and durable so it will last a long time.
In the hoop taping video, I recommend types of tape. You can find a whole range of links to these types of tapes below.
Join our virtual study group.
The ARE Boot Camp offers a syllabus, a schedule with deadlines, people to study with, and accountability. To help you study for the Architect Exam, the program is organized similarly to a design studio.
Your architecture model is only as good as the glue that holds it together.
A few months ago I wrote a blog post called Building Great Architecture Models, I mostly wrote about a lot of tools, techniques and habits that really took my model building to the next level.
After I wrote that blog post I realized I could go on for a really long time about all the glue and tape that I use to build architecture models.
Believe it or not I actually use tape to hold my architecture models together just as much as I use glue.
Using the Right Tool for the Job
Part of what I think really helped me architectural model builder was that I had a very good understanding of when to use one product versus another.
In my second year of architecture school, another student shared with me that this is how they thought about their work and look at their peers. Crappy design work and sloppy half ass models and drawings say to everyone that you’re sloppy and half ass with the rest of your life.
This is bad advice and I shouldn’t be sharing this kind of thinking with young architects. I also don’t agree with it. BUT, even though I don’t agree with it, I still bought into this thinking when I was in college.
If I look at it positively, this concept really inspired me to work a lot harder during architecture school.
If I look at it negatively, this concept allowed me beat myself up a lot about what I “thought” the work should be, rather than just trusting in the process.
A few quick rules of thumb.
Always buy 3M products when you can. I have had the best luck with 3M and thought they make superior quality adhesives over everyone else.
Continually and constantly test every adhesive with every material. Some glues work better with some materials than other. Trial and error is the only way to learn this. Having this knowledge is powerful when considering what is possible with certain materials.
Discover what works for you. I don’t care for some products that works great for other people.
Always and only spray mount outside. When you spray glue adhesive tiny glue particles instantly get everywhere and it is also extremely toxic.
Don’t lend out your tools. Sure I will always help a friend in a time of need, but generally speaking I was really uptight about lending out my tools in the studio.
Tacky glue is an awesome all-purpose model building glue for almost everything.
Give me a syringe filled with SOBO white glue, a sharp knife and a pile of Bristol board and I will take over the world. Seriously. Tacky glue is the way to go.
I wonder what OSHA thinks of this commercial.
Crazy Glue works awesome for hanging bonehead construction workers off I-beams from their hard hats, but I wouldn’t use it for anything else.
I discovered Cyanoacrylate by accident one day when I was at a model railroad shop buying dimension basswood for a model. This glue really upped the ante on the way I build models and their craftsmanship.
Whoever invented draft dots was a genius. Draft dots are drafting tape that are precut into a circle that just easily peel off from a piece of paper.
Double sided Tape
Double-sided tape is an alternative to spray mount or glue. It applies like normal tape and then after it is applied to the first surface, you can unpeel it to expose the second side of the adhesive.
Many years ago I met an architect who uses mostly double-sided tape to build his beautiful models. He swore by the stuff and he had different types of double-sided tape he used to build models. He got me hooked and I actually use this double-sided tape more then white glue.
Duct tape is the rednecks answer to solve any problem.
I actually have more useful experiences using duct tape while I’m backpacking and bike touring. I’ve used it fix broken tent poles, hold my tent down to concrete and even put duct tape on my feet to stop my hiking boots from giving me blisters.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your gaffers tape wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of gaffers tape
- №1 — Gaffers Tape – 2 Inch by 40 Yards in Black – Get 33% More! High End Professional Grade – Gaffer Tape is the Perfect Alternative to Duct Tape
- №2 — REAL Professional Premium Grade Gaffer Tape by Gaffer Power – Made in the USA – Black 2 Inch X 30 Yards – Heavy Duty Gaffers Tape Plus – 11.5 mils – Better than Duct Tape – Powerful Adhesive Tape
- №3 — Real Premium Grade Gaffer Tape By GafferPower Made in the USA Black