Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best guitar cable 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated May 1, 2019
Best guitar cable of 2018
The above tidbits will bring you closer to selecting guitar cable that best serves your needs and as per your budget. Many brands have introduced guitar cable on the market. These brands have resulted in a variety for the user. These require that the consumers be well aware of what they are buying so as to make the best choice.
I have a variety of material used in the construction of guitar cable including metal, plastic, and glass. I have taken the initiative to educate you on the top three best guitar cable that you can buy this year.
Test Results and Ratings
|Ease of use||
Why did this guitar cable win the first place?
I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I was completely satisfied with the price. Its counterparts in this price range are way worse. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing!
Why did this guitar cable come in second place?
This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money.
Why did this guitar cable take third place?
This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. The material is incredibly nice to the touch. It has a great color, which will suit any wallpapers.
guitar cable Buyer’s Guide
Performance Series Instrument Cables by Fender are really on an another level. Fender is known for years for delivering the best in instruments and their accessories.
These cables are designed to provide best the performance in live concerts. Likewise, they are engineered for avoiding twisting, kinking and having any physical static current in between them to deliver the best sound.
These cables are available in four designs straight, patch, microphone and right angle. The size is available from feet and all the way up to 2feet.
To reduce handling noise extra thick PVC jacket is used to knock off unwanted clicks and pop. Similarly, to minimize noise interferences a 90% copper coverage shield is used for cutting electronic buzz especially in electronic guitars.
These cables are designed by 23AWG Oxygen-free copper conductors for providing the best performance out. Ultra low capacitance levels provide superb tone and shielding from unwanted magnetic fields and sounds. Apart from it, you are backed up with a lifetime warranty so you don’t have to about that especial care.
Fender cables are top-notch when it comes to design and performance.
With 23AWG Oxygen-free copper conductor, lifetime warranty and a wide range of sizes this product is great value for the money.
There are some factors, if looked upon carefully you will not end up buying a fussy cable for your guitar and these factors are length of the cable, the conductor design, conductor material, quality of the connector, shielding and electrostatic shielding and last but certainly not the least is the insulation material used in the cable.
If all these factors are taken into proper consideration the chances are you will find a pretty nice cable for your guitar that will not bring down the quality of the sound that your guitar has on offer and not make you feel ashamed in front of a huge crowd at a stage performance or a couple of people in your jamming room.
Conducting means to transmit energy by conduction. So basically most of the cords use the copper as a conductor, providing a cleaner signal.
But the tables are surely turned as there is a whole lot debate about Oxygen-free copper or linear-crystal copper materials. These two materials tend to provide a better conductivity and cleaner signal.
No such theory is assigned but the difference can be felt in real situations.
Moving on the conductor design, so there are basically two basic center conductor designs, Solid conductor or Stranded conductors.
Solid conductors are cheaper and can be simply soldered. Likewise, they can break easily.
Stranded conductors are stronger and flexible. Similarly, they are relatively more expensive than the solid ones.
AWG unit is used to measure the gauge of copper strands, a bigger number indicates a smaller size – view our top ukes here.
Usually, there are around types of cables, a solid conductor, individual strand and premium strand.
Many small strands and high AWG numbers result in stronger and flexible cable. Usually, the premium strands have more strands and a higher AWG number resulting in expensive yet best cable.
To improve the performance game at a more bigger level some companies add a tin coating over each strand which prevents oxidation for longevity and makes them easier to solder. Likewise, the drawback of this coating is that it causes a skin-effect which tends to switch high-frequencies signal towards the outer surface of the conductor, causing to alter the frequency response of the signal.
So many manufacturers prefer silver coating over tin as it doesn’t produce this effect.
Guitar cables only transfer the signals and they are vulnerable to frequencies around. Unlike microphones, they don’t have any noise cancellation features. So radio frequencies and magnetic field can cause you lack in quality.
It is the cheapest option; durability and protection from interferences are not promised anyhow.
Likewise, many manufacturers claim that Braided Shielding also provides a protecting layer for avoiding ground-loop hum but the truth is nowhere near. They don’t. You can simply cut off the ground-lumping factor by avoiding the cable running parallel to an extension cord or AC power cables and avoiding storing your excess cable length next to the amp.
It’s a newer technology as compared to Dacron tapes and is widely used among many cords.
C-PVC provides flexibility, thinness, and better conductivity when compared to Dacron tapes. Likewise, it provides minimal friction with consistent thickness.
Some companies have replaced braided copper shields with conductive PVC as it provides more blocks towards interferences.
Before we really get into insulation matters, we must cover capacitance and how it affects the sound quality.
Whenever two materials (carrying a current) are separated by an insulation a capacitor is created.
In guitar cables, the capacitance should be as low as possible because it results in better high-frequency responses and minimizes the clacking sound when the cable is struck or stepped over.
Dielectric constant is used to measure the capacitance, which assigns the numbers to the materials. Remember that lower the value better the cable insulation.
For an instance, Rubber has a rating of 6.5, whereas Polyethylene has a rating of 2.which means that Polyethylene has a lower capacitance.
Polyethylene is commonly used in cable insulation as they are cheaper and good.
Some old-school companies provide redefined experience by using special polymers for high-end cables to lower the capacitances as much as possible.
So now as you have in-depth knowledge about the parts and factors affecting them you can easily pick up one for yourself by referring to the information that we have crafted.
Electronics 101: metal conducts electricity, plastic doesn’t. So look for metal head shells surrounding the plugs. These cables are a little more expensive than ones that use injected molding around their plugs, but they sound way better. A/B a couple one day and you’ll notice the difference. Also, look for two or four-conductor cables, as opposed to single conductors. If the packaging doesn’t tell you what you’re buying, ask a salesperson.
Go With The Flow
Ever wonder why some high-audio cables have little arrows printed on them that point which way the cord should be plugged in? That’s because an audio interconnect requires the signal to be able to pass at the same strength in both the positive negative direction. Modifying this balance causes impedance mismatches – and seriously bonks your awesome tone.
Because most guitar cable manufacturers don’t pay any attention to this matter, you’re on your own. But don’t panic, this is another easy one to figure out. All you have to do is plug your guitar in one way, then try it the other way. A/B your tone – chances are you’ll find a difference if you listen carefully – and voila! problem solved. Oh, but only try this with a cable of conservative length; that fifty foot monster is going to sound like dirt no matter what.
Instrument cables connect a guitar, bass, keyboard or other electronic instrument to an amp, preamp or direct box. They carry low-voltage signals and generally have 1/4” connectors. They are considered unbalanced cables, which means they are susceptible to noise and should be kept as short as possible (certainly under 2feet).
An instrument cable should never be used as speaker cable. If used as a speaker cable, the quality of sound will suffer and the cable may get hot enough to melt the jacket.
Microphone cables are generally understood correctly, mainly because of their unique XLR connector. They are shielded and balanced which effectively keeps unwanted noise at a minimum (especially for long cable runs). They are used to connect microphones, direct boxes and other low-impedance signals to the mixer.
A speaker cable is an unbalanced cable that has a much heavier gauge (more wire) than most other audio cables. The reason they need heavier wire is because they carry a much higher voltage than microphone or instrument cables.
While a range of colors have been used over the years, typically Red is used for the right channel and White for the left audio channel.
The above photo shows both female and male ends of an RCA cable. The top cable shows female ends and the bottom shows male. All combinations are available to match your needs.
All these questions and more are probably spinning at the center of the burgeoning guitarist’s mind when starting out. But fear not – we’re here to help you make the best decision so you can start playing and, more importantly, keep playing until we can count you as one of our own.
Follow this guide for our tips and recommendations on what to keep in mind when buying a first guitar for yourself or someone else.
Starting With An Acoustic
Many teaching purists will passionately recommend new players start with an acoustic. And with good reason. There’s an immediacy that comes with picking up an acoustic guitar and strumming away that doesn’t exist with an electric. You learn the connection between attack and tone much more quickly with an acoustic. For players who strive to jump into the world singer-songwriter stylings or cozy up next to a campfire, starting with an acoustic is the natural choice.
Starting With A Nylon String Guitar
Found in middle school music room closets the world over, beginner nylon-string or classical acoustics are an extremely popular route for first-time players. There are several reasons for this. For one, the smaller bodies of these guitars can be especially inviting for younger players. Nylon string guitars have wider necks with more spacing between each string which can make landing your finger in the right place much easier. Most of all though, the nylon strings themselves are softer and easier to press down, which is one area new guitarists frequently have trouble with.
For these reasons and more, classical or nylon string guitars are a fantastic choice for a first time player. Check out the section and links below for some of our picks for first-time nylon string guitars to consider.
Starting With A Steel String Acoustic
While nylon string guitars are a great choice for beginners, their tone can be a bit limiting when taking the next steps in your progression as a player. For something that covers the sounds of contemporary popular music, a steel string acoustic is far more practical. There may be a slightly longer learning curve to getting your fingering just right, but once mastered, a steel string acoustic can carry you through a wide range of diverse playing styles and musical genres.
Starting With An Electric
Of course, the most important consideration when buying an electric guitar is to find one that will make you look as cool as possible when taking rockstar selfies in the mirror. Joking aside, getting a guitar that excites you will keep you inspired to play, which is the most important thing for new players.
You should also consider what type of music you hope to master and what player epitomizes that style. Fan of Jimi Hendrix and Stevie Ray Vaughan? You should probably get a Stratocaster. Dream of playing some Wes Montgomery licks in a jazz combo? Maybe a hollowbody is right for you. Considering what guitars their heroes play when prepping for a purchase is something that allguitarists do, even if they deny it.
Fender Mustang I
There’s been something of a trend over the past few years of small amps with onboard modeling and effects. The Mustang I (now in its second version) is Fender’s take on the format.
In addition to the amp, note that you will need a 1/4-inch guitar cable to connect the guitar to the amp.
A Note On Strat Packs
In today’s market, a popular first choice for players (and a perennial Christmas gift) is what’s commonly called a “Strat Pack.” This entails a pre-made package usually including an electric guitar, an amp, and an array of accessories like a strap and some picks. Packs of this nature are produced by a number of different companies including Squier, Ibanez, and Epiphone. While they offer a great all-in-one solution, often times you can get a better guitar just by piecing your own starter rig part by part.
Accessories You’ll Need
At some point or another, you will break a string. Even if you don’t, guitars need a new set of strings every several months depending on how often you play. Strings are designed specifically for the above categories of guitar (nylon, steel string, electric) in varying gauges. Most new players use lighter gauged strings such as.or.10s.
Tuning a guitar by ear is a difficult thing to master, but nothing’s going to discourage a new player more than having to contend with a horribly out-of-tune instrument. For this reason, we consider a tuner essential (we actually sell a great, cheap one you can get to by clicking on this link).
Accessories You Don’t Need but Should Get Anyway
This one’s pretty straightforward. If you want to stand while you play, you’ll need a strap. There are a lot of basic options out there, but every guitar looks good with something like a Souldier strap on it.
A guitar stand is a device that holds and props up your guitar for easy access. It’s not an essential accessory, but lots of players find having their guitar out in the house inspires them to grab it an practice more than they might otherwise. It also prevents a lot of accidental knockovers from the dog, brother, sister, child or wind. Don’t just lean it and leave it. Get a stand.
New guitarists love singing along to the songs they’re learning. A capo can easily change the key of open position playing making it that much easier to play any song you want.
Looking at the chart, it seems like the electric guitar mandates the most extra stuff. And that’s without even getting into the world of effects. Just wait, you’ll get there.
So there you have it…
Hopefully the above will help you first timers out there. One thing to note is that once you have your guitar, you will want to get what’s known as a setup performed by a tech at least a couple times a year if you’re playing regularly. Think of this as like getting the oil changed on your car. Even experienced players don’t often recognize the importance of getting their guitars setup regularly, but it’s an essential part of keeping your instrument in tip-top form for years to come.
A tool no guitarist should be without! The ability to practice an exercise at a slower, more easily manageable tempo, and gradually increase the speed is an absolute necessity when it comes to developing good clean technique. Again, your amp or effects unit may come with one installed, but if not just use one of the many free metronomes available on the internet. Smartphone users will be able to find a plethora of metronome and drum-machine apps available.
We’re here to help
Audio cables can seem like a simple thing in concept, until you set out to buy one and realize you didn’t know how much you didn’t know. Although they may be the least exciting components in your stage rig or studio setup, they are some of the most important.
So here is what you need to know, in plain English, to make sure you’re getting the best cable for your gear and your purpose.
The term “patch cable” generically describes any cable that links various components together. They often are quite short in length and may be used in a PA or recording setups to interconnect gear, or to link effects pedals to each other in a signal chain. They may have balanced or unbalanced conductors (discussed above) depending on their purpose, and can have various kinds of connectors including XLR, 1/4″ phone, TRS, or RCA.
The right-angle 1/4″ connectors on these Six-inch Livewire patch cables makes them perfect for connecting effects pedals in a signal chain.
The Livewire Elite Speakon Cable offers a secure connection, twist- and tangle-resistant design, and high-quality conductors that keep your signal noise-free.
XLR connectors have three pins for the positive, negative, and ground. They are most commonly used on microphone cables, but you will also see them used on balanced patch cables and with DMX-enabled lighting equipment.
The Monster Cable Studio Pro 2000 XLR Microphone cable uses Time Correct technology for the ultimate in detail and soundstage imaging.
Digital Audio Connectors
Below are some of the most common digital audio cables and connectors required for linking digital mixers, recorders, preamps, and DAWs (digital audio workstations).
A word of caution: In many cases, digital gear uses cables that resemble their analog XLR or RCA counterparts. While these connectors may look the same, the cables are often designed for different resistances, and are not interchangeable with their analog look-alikes.
Browse Musician’s Friend’s entire selection of digital cables and connectors.
Musical Instrument Digital Interface cables allow electronic instruments to communicate with peripheral devices. They don’t transmit actual audio, but by signaling every aspect of a musical performance—the note, how long it is held, the velocity of the attack, etc.—MIDI technology defines the sound in the receiving module.
MIDI cables can also communicate control functions to software and synthesizers, so you can control sound and tones with a remote control surface.
The Rocktron RMM900 Cable carries MIDI commands from a footcontroller to any MIDI-compatible gear via a 7-pin MIDI jack.
USB (Universal Serial Bus) cables have become standard for connecting everything from printers to digital audio gear. USB cables have Type A, Type B, Mini-A, Micro-A, Mini-B, Micro-B, or Type C connectors at one end, and a device-specific connector at the other. USB cables can also be used as a power source for some devices. The latest version, USB 3.0, is significantly faster than USB 2.0 and can make a difference in minimizing lag during performances and studio playback of complex material.
For critical audio applications such as recording and DJ work, a premium-quality connector like the Oyaide Neo d+ Series Class B USB Cable ensures stable performance.
There are three types of FireWire connectors: 4-pin, 6-pin and 9-pin. The 4-pin connector, or FW400, transfers data at 400 Mbps (megabytes per second). The slightly larger 6-pin connector has the same transfer rate, but also supplies DC power. The 9-pin connector, or FW800, transfers data twice as fast and also supplies power.
The METRIC HALO Firewire Cable has a standard 6-pin connector on each end, so it can transfer data and also supply power.
Optical Cables and Connectors
Optical cables transmit digital audio as pulses of light, which make them almost completely immune to interference. They are surround-sound capable, but can’t handle higher-resolution formats such as those on Blu-Ray discs.
Livewire Elite Optical Data Cable feature premium, heavy-duty fiber-optic cable with Toslink connectors for ADAT “light pipe” optical connections, audio interfaces and recording equipment.
The Sony/Philips Digital Interface Format (S/PDIF) outputs audio over shorter distances. These connectors use either optical or coaxial cables. Coaxial cables are similar in quality to optical cables, but less common. They use RCA connectors, but these cables are not interchangeable with analog RCA cables.
Bayonet Neill-Concelman connectors were originally designed for military use, but are now commonly used on video and audio testing equipment. The bayonet-style connector is used with miniature and subminiature coaxial cables in radio-frequency equipment and video gear.
This Hosa RG 5Cable has a male BNC connector on each end for video or Ethernet connections.
The Tascam Digital Interconnect Format is an unbalanced proprietary format connector that sends and/or receives up to eight channels of digital audio. The bidirectional connection means that only one cable is required to connect the eight ins and outs of one compatible device to another.
The most common is the braided shield. Small wire strands are braided to form a sheath around the insulation of the signal-conducting wire. This type of shielding is flexible and durable. Onstage mic and instrument cables are constantly being bent, pulled, and stepped on, and braided shielding holds up best under these conditions.
Serve or Spiral-Wrapped Shield
Another type of shielding is the spiral-wrapped or serve shield. This sheath is formed by wrapping a flat strip of wire strands around the center wires in a spiral. The serve shield, while it lacks the tensile strength of a braided shield, is more flexible than a braided shield because it stretches when the cable is bent. It is less resistant to radio frequency (RF) interference, because it is actually a coil and has inductance. It is also easier to manufacture so cables using serve shielding are usually less expensive.
The foil shield is a Mylar-backed aluminum tube that terminates at a copper drain wire. It provides 100% coverage, but since aluminum is a poor conductor of electricity, it also interferes with signal transfer. Foil shielding is inexpensive and easy to make, but it is also fragile and breaks down easily with repeated flexing. It is best used in small patch cables and stereo cables that don’t move much once they are connected.
Even the best cable will eventually fail, and the more you use your sound equipment, the faster you will go through them – especially if you’re taking it on the road. A cable tester is a simple tool that verifies intended signals are working, and no unintended signals are being carried. If you have a problem with your system, a cable tester can quickly help you determine what and where the problem is.
The Galaxy Audio Cable Tester quickly and easily tests XLR, 1/4″, 1/8″, Speakon, stereo RCA, and DIN (MIDI) cables, making it an essential tool for musicians and sound engineers.
Browse the Musician’s Friend selection of cable testers and other audio test equipment.
Snakes are essentially bundled sets of cables. Stage snakes may contain microphone, patch, or speaker cables and are used for two-way connection between the stage and mixers and other PA equipment. They have a fan of connectors on one end, and a box on the stage end that houses a panel of connectors. In shopping for a snake, the length and the type of connections are the main considerations. There are also audio snakes for studios that bundle various cables needed for connecting studio components.
Very ruggedly built with Neutrik D connectors and serious strain relief on all cables, the Pro Co StageMASTER 12-Channel Snake has 1sends and returns.
Explore the complete selection of audio cable snakes at Musician’s Friend.
The first thing to remember about HDMI is that it is a digital standard. Unlike component video, composite video, S-video, or coaxial cable, HDMI signals don’t gradually degrade, or get fuzzy and lose clarity as the signal fades or interference grows. For digital signals like HDMI, as long as there is enough data for the receiver to put together a picture, it will form. If there isn’t, it will just drop off. While processing artifacts can occur and gaps in the signal can cause blocky effects or screen blanking, generally an HDMI signal will display whenever the signal successfully reaches the receiver. Claims that more expensive cables put forth greater video or audio fidelity are nonsense; it’s like saying you can get better-looking YouTube videos on your laptop by buying more expensive Ethernet cables. From a technical standpoint, it simply doesn’t make sense.
This doesn’t mean that all HDMI cables are created equal in all cases. HDMI includes multiple specifications detailing standards of bandwidth and the capabilities of the cable.
That said, there are cases where higher quality cables and going to lengths to maintain signal quality are important. They just aren’t cases that apply for most HDTV owners. If you’re going to run an HDMI cable for lengths longer than feet, you should be concerned about insulation to protect against signal degradation. It’s not an issue for 6-foot lengths of cable, but as the distance between media device and display increases, signal quality decreases and the more susceptible the signal becomes to magnetic interference. In fact, for distances of over 30 feet, the HDMI licensing board recommends either using a signal amplifier or considering an alternate solution, like an HDMI-over-Ethernet converter. When you’re running up against the maximum length, the greater insulation and build quality of more expensive cables can potentially improve the stability of your signal. However, if there’s a 30-foot gap between your Blu-ray player and your HDTV, you might want to rearrange some furniture. Or just use a technology designed for long distances.
If I were to buy an extra Micro-USB cable or replace a broken one, I’d choose Anker’s PowerLine Micro USB (3ft), because it hits all the right notes in terms of design, functionality, and price. We can’t test every cable, but we’ve tested dozens of Micro-USB cables over hundreds of hours and compared the PowerLine against our previous picks, and Anker’s cable is easy to recommend.
Our electrical engineer dissected Anker’s current lineup of Micro-USB cables and found them to be so similar inside that we still recommend going with the standard PowerLine model, as it’s the least expensive. The PowerLine+ is a good choice if you want a fabric-wrapped cable, but it doesn’t necessarily offer better construction.
Anker’s PowerLine cables charge Micro-USB accessories and devices at their maximum speed.
If you like the appearance and possible—but not guaranteed—extra durability of a nylon-wrapped cable, spend a few dollars more and choose Anker’s PowerLine+ MicroUSB. Our teardown revealed the interior construction to be the same as our pick’s, and it has the same 18-month warranty, but Anker says it’ll withstand twice as many bends, and it includes a carrying pouch for travel.
Why you should trust me
How we picked
You’ll find hundreds of different Micro-USB cables for sale, and for good reason: With the exception of Apple products (which use Lightning-to-USB cables), almost every modern portable device charges with a cable that has a standard USB Type-A plug on one side and a USB 2.0 Micro-B connector on the other. Many portable hard drives also use such a cable, for both power and data transfers. (Some recent smartphones use USB-C, but they’re few and far between. A few devices still use USB 3.0 Micro-B plugs, but that connector has all but disappeared from phones and tablets.) Not sure which plugs are which? Here’s a great illustrated reference.
For the previous version of this guide, we sent more than 30 cables to a former NASA engineer, who tore them apart to examine their internals; we also tested each cable’s charging and data-transfer rates. But in that testing and over the months and years that we’ve been using those cables for long-term testing, we found no real differences, in charging or data-transfer performance, between our top picks and other good models. As long as a cable was properly constructed—and most models from known, reputable vendors are—it worked great.
What Tools Do You Need
Soldering Iron — It is important that you use a soldering iron of at least 2watts for electric guitar components. The reason for this is that with a lower powered iron, the time needed to heat a component for solder application is longer — especially when dealing with grounding wires on volume and tone pots. This extra time allows for heat to radiate away from the iron contact point and through components, potentially causing damage. If you are new to soldering, however, I do not recommend using an iron much above 25w. This will allow for connections to be made without the speed that is needed with a high-powered iron. My advice for beginners would be to stick within 2to 50 watts and to keep in mind that the contact time should generally be shorter for higher powers.
Solder — The most common and recommended solder for guitar work is the rosin-core, 60/40. The 60/40 describes the ratio of tin to lead, respectively. The rosin (flux) core facilitates the bonding process of the metals and solder.
De-soldering braid — There can be times where you have too much solder buildup on components and need to remove it. At other times, you may simply need to remove the whole joint. This is where a de-soldering braid can be useful. It draws in solder under heat and thus removes it from components.
Pliers — Due to the way heat transfers through thin wires and components quickly, it is best to use pliers when needing to grab a hold while at the same time applying heat nearby.
Tinning the Tip
After wiping the tip of the soldering iron with the solder, you should notice a thin silver layer over the tip. If so, you have successfully tinned the tip.
Please note: It is sometimes thought that you apply solder to the iron tip and then bring the tip into contact with the components you want to join. This is incorrect. In fact, the only time that solder should really be placed on the tip is in the tinning process. The proper method is to use the soldering iron only as a source for heat.
Practice Makes Perfect
Soldering is a skill more than anything. You need to practice it if you intend to do a good job. In fact, I highly recommend that you practice on something invaluable first — even just some plain used wire — before moving on to a guitar or other instrument. You can cut some scrap wire into several pieces and practice creating joints with them. Try to create a shiny joint as that is usually the sign of a good connection. If you have a resistance meter that can measure small resistances, you can use that to test your connections. A quick tip to getting better connections is to first tin the ends of wires to be connected. This is done much like the tinning of an iron tip; however, you do not wipe away any solder after coating. You simply coat the ends of the wire with a bead of solder that will later be used to form a joint.
Here are some of the popular Bass Guitar Brands
Gibson is another famous brand and produces bass guitars in mass quantities. It is one of the best companies for bass guitar.
Fender is popular for quality and durable bass guitars. Fender was the first company to mass produce bass guitars.
Apart from the above, yamaha, Dean, Epiphone, Hofner etc. are some of the other brands that produce quality bass guitars.
As you can see, there are several good bass guitar brands out there. Some of the popular ones include: Dean, Squier electric bass guitars, Jasmine by Takamine, Dean and Fender acoustic bass guitars.
You also have some good options when it comes to left handed bass guitars.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your guitar cable wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of guitar cable
- №1 — Donner Guitar Cable 10 ft
- №2 — Donner Guitar Cable 10 ft
- №3 — Fender Performance Series Instrument Cables