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Best led tubelight 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated July 1, 2019
Best led tubelight of 2018
Following is the list of top three led tubelight of 2018. Whether you’re looking to upgrade your comfort, style, or accessibility, we have picks to fit a variety of needs and budgets. Simply review and buy them. The rating is based on multiple factors: The 3 metrics ‐ Design, Materials, Performance, and other indicators such as: Popularity, Opinions, Brand, Reputation and more.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this led tubelight win the first place?
I also liked the delivery service that was fast and quick to react. It was delivered on the third day. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch!
Why did this led tubelight come in second place?
The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery.
Why did this led tubelight take third place?
This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. I hope that the good reputation of the manufacturer will guarantee a long-term work.
led tubelight Buyer’s Guide
Incandescent lights work by using electricity to heat up a filament inside a container with inert gas, which produces light after a certain degree. The major drawback to this is its efficiency. Only 2.2% of all energy used produces light or lumens, with the best being still a measly 5%. The rest is converted into heat, which eventually heats up its surroundings.
Halogens work almost the same, only with the addition of a halogen gas inside. The halogen gas redeposits the tungsten evaporated from heat back into the filament, extending its lifespan. This has two downsides, however. First, the tungsten generates UV light which will slowly damage any color pigments it comes in contact with. Furthermore, they are extremely hot. So hot that they are at times used in ceramic cook top stoves! As such, not only do they not increase efficiency, the added heat and UV light make these horrible home lights.
Fluorescent bulbs work by passing electric current and energizing the mercury vapor inside the tubes. The vapor then produces short-wave UV light that causes the phosphor coating to glow. They are much more efficient than Incandescent and Halogens, having a 15% efficiency at best. However, they still generate high amounts of heat (not as much as the Halogen though) and UV light.
To start if off, this LED bulb has a CRI of 80+. Sadly, however, there is no mention of Rrating. It is UL listed as well, so it has some backing.
The TIWIN A1come in only varieties, but it makes up for it on lumens. Both the 2700K and 5000K output 1100lm, and both use 1watts at max power. The high lumens make these a perfect 80w Incandescent replacement for those looking.
According to the manufacturer, these LED bulbs are not suited for full enclosures as the voltage regulator heats up a little too much. They will, however, do fine in semi-closed enclosures.
SGL Inch Downlight
Onwards we go, with this bulb having a CRI of 80+. This bulb is ENERGY STAR and UL Listed, using up to 1watts at max, making this an efficient LED.
These LED bulbs come in versions, 3000/4000/5000K, with lumens being as follows: 3000K: 1050lm, 4000K: 1080lm and 5000K: 1150lm. With their high lumens, this downlight is perfect for an 80w Incandescent replacement.
On another note, this LED bulb boasts an amazing dimmability of 100% to 1%, making it the best dimming LED bulb on this list.
This bulb is rated for enclosed fixtures as well, due to its requirement of a recessed can. While these LED bulbs are dimmable, sadly no percentage is given and as such, should be assumed to be 100-50%. Lastly, this LED light bulb is also rated for outdoor use, making this appealing to those wanting a recessed patio bulb.
Coming with a choice of glows, the 2700K outputs: 630lm, 3000K outputs 650 and the 4000K outputs 670. Every glow also consumes the same wattage, 14w.
As such, they are on the dimmer side in terms of lumens, mostly due to the smaller size and increased attention to CRI. Overall, however, these are an amazing replacement for 60 watt Incandescent bulbs, but will fall behind as 80 and 100-watt bulb replacements.
LOHAS Torpedo LED
As one of the smallest LED bulb around, the LOHAS Torpedo LEDs fall shorter on the spec side. However, these still manage a CRI>80, making them on par with others here on this list. And due to their size, take the least around of watts, maxing out at watts on 100% brightness. Sadly, however, these are not UL-listed, so keep this in mind.
In terms of lumens, the LOHAS fall under with the 2700/4000/5000K all outputting 550lm. As such, these LED bulbs are best used to replace a 40-watt Incandescent, not a 60 watt as advertised. However, due to its design, this LED is marketed as a 360° bulb. As such, when placed in certain fixtures, they may seem brighter than one might expect.
Something that must be noted, is some of the design issues. People have reported issues with the base not fitting all the way and thus making these LED bulbs worthless to them. This is because the base is on the shorter side, making the bulb not fit in every socket.
LEDMO LED Candelabra
On the lumens side, these are brighter than the LOHAS, with the 3000K and 6000K both outputting 630lm. Unlike the LOHAS however these only have a 270° beam angle, and as such, cover less area compared to the other.
Tube LED Bulbs
A quick note: *most these require ballast bypass as per instructions given by HYPERIKON.
To start it off, these tube LEDs boast a CRI of 84, making them better than most other tubes. Though they are one of the most power intensive, drawing in 1watts. This LED bulb is not ENERGY STAR qualified, but it is DLC qualified. As such, it still is an efficient bulb and has some credibility.
There is some similarity spec wise between this set of LED tubes, and the ones above. And as such, this tube draws 1watts. The lumens are the same all across the glows, with 3000/4000/5000/6000K all outputting 2200lm, just like the double ended. Lastly, this bulb also comes in at a CRI of 84, so this choice is mostly out of which works on your fixture.
Gone are days when the strength of light bulbs was measured in watts. Actually, it is a measure of power. In time of incandescent light bulbs, the strength for lighting was checked by wattage rating, wherein a 100-watt lamp can put out more light compared to a 60-watt lamp. Reason is that incandescent lamps use the same filament material but 98% of the energy is wasted on heat and only 2% is spent on making light. So, the only way to raise their light output is to increase the wattage. It was our mindset to look wattage on the light packaging to know how bright it would be. But actually, wattage rating has nothing to do with how bright the bulb is.
Newer types of bulbs consume much less power compared to old-style incandescent light bulbs. For ex. LED light bulbs spend over 90% of their input energy on light instead of heat.
The right way to measure efficiency of any light sources is based on how many lumens they can produce per watt. We consider kilometers per littler to measure fuel efficiency of the car, just like the lumens-per-watt rating to check how energy efficient the bulb is. to 1watts LEDs can produce the same number of lumens as standard 40- or 60-watt bulbs. So if you want to replace a 60-watt bulb, go for an LED bulb that produces close to 800 lumens; while for a 40-watt bulb, go for 450 lumens.
One thing for sure is that lots of brands produce LED lighting products having their own standards. You can choose the best one considering the following guidelines.
The chart indicates that as high as Lumens-per-watt of the lighting, wattage consumption goes down. Ultimately, you can save more money with low-wattage lighting. Let’s understand clearly with practical example.
If lighting comes with 100 lumens-per-watt, you require 14watts power consumption.
For lighting with 90 lumens-per-watt, you require 15watts power consumption.
For lighting with 80 lumens-per-watt, you require 17watts power consumption.
For lighting with 70 lumens-per-watt, you require 20watts power consumption. This is almost 56% more compared to lighting with 1lumens-per-watt.
Here you can simply check the difference that if you opt for lighting with 70 lumens-per-watt, you wattage consumption would be increased upto 56% than of lighting with 1Lumens-per-watt.
Let’s check the real market scenario with leading brands.
Power factor is really a vital parameter to check quality of any electrical instrument. Power Factor is the effective ratio of real power (used power at load) to apparent power from your meter. Intelligent buyer is who not only check wattage of any LED Light but who also check power factor with wattage.
In simple example, if 7watt LED light packaging label shows 0.power factor then it actually consume 10watt. In short, LED lights with power factor of 0.and above are high in quality.
LED vs. CFL vs. Halogen
LEDs vs. Incandescent Bulbs
Traditional incandescent bulbs measured their brightness in watts; if you wanted a brighter bulb, you bought one with a higher wattage. However, with the advent of LEDs and other types of lighting, that yardstick has become meaningless, and as a result, a bulb’s brightness is now listed as lumens, which is a more accurate measurement of how bright it is, rather than how much energy it consumes. Below is a conversion table which shows how much energy, in watts, an incandescent bulb and an LED typically require to produce the same amount of light.
Other Lightbulb Alternatives
EISA will also stop the manufacturing of candle-and globe-shaped 60-watt incandescent bulbs (the types used in chandeliers and bathroom vanity light fixtures). However, the law doesn’t affect 40-watt versions of those bulbs, nor three-way (50 to 100 to 150-watt) incandescent A1bulbs. So, those will continue to be an option for you, as well, in fixtures that will accommodate them.
LED Lightbulb Options
Traditional bulbs for table and floor lamps are known by their lighting industry style name “A19,”while floodlight bulbs made for track lights and in-ceiling fixtures are dubbed “BR30.” Your best long-term alternative to either style is extremely energy-efficient LED technology.
The LED equivalent of a 60-watt A1bulb consumes only between and 1watts, and provides about the same light output, measured in lumens. A 40-watt equivalent LED bulb consumes only to 8.watts. And a 65-watt BR30 (floodlight) replacement LED bulb consumes only to 1watts.
Moreover, an LED bulb’s lifespan is practically infinite. Manufacturers typically estimate a bulb’s lifespan based on three hours of use per day. By that measurement, an LED bulb will be as good as new for at least a decade, manufacturers say. Under the same conditions, an old-fashioned lightbulb may work for only about a year before burning out.
For example, GE’s equivalent LED bulb has a rated lifetime of 15,000 hours or 13.years. Philips’ equivalent LED bulb has a rated lifetime of 10,000 hours or 9.1years.
LED bulbs will continue to light up even after their rated lifetimes expire; however, brightness may drop or the color cast of the light may change.
GE, Philips, Sylvania, Cree and other brands (including IKEA) all offer LED bulbs that output the most popular “soft white” light, at retailers including Home Depot, Target and Walmart. In addition, GE ‘s Reveal lineup of color-enhancing lightbulbs (a coating filters out yellow tones to enhance colors lit by the bulb) with LED replacements equivalent to 40-watt and 60-watt A1bulbs and to a 65-watt BR30 bulb.
2700K: These bulbs will be labeled “soft white,” and will cast a gentle warm glow that’s good for the bedroom, as well as table and floor lamps.
3000K: “Bright White” bulbs have a more neutral glow, being neither warm nor cool.
5000K: Lights that are 5000K and higher will typically have a “daylight” label, and edge towards the bluer part of the spectrum. However, they will best approximate actual sunlight.
With rising household bills, switching to LED bulbs is a quick, easy way to save money. Despite a lower wattage, an LED bulb is often as bright as a traditional bulb, but uses up to 90% less energy.
Designed to work with all existing light fittings, it’s easy to replace your old bulbs with new, efficient LEDs. With a lengthy lifespan of up to 20 years, LED bulbs are a smart, sustainable option for your home.
What is a hybrid LED tube? A Hybrid tube is one that has the ability to use or not use the existing fixtures ballast. So if you have a situation where you do a direct install with one of our hybrid LED tubes and it does not light up (probably because of ballast incompatibility, then you can always wire around the ballast and convert it into a double ended powered tube. In fact, our hybrid tube can run with the ballast, or without the ballast either as single ended power or double ended power.
Single Ended Power vs. Dual Ended Power
Internal driven tubes are powered via the electricity that is supplied through it pins. Two options are available, single ended power and dual end power. A single ended power tube receives power to only end of the tube – positive to pin and neutral to the other. No power is sent to the other end of the tube. A dual ended power tube receives power to both ends of the tube, positive to one end and neutral to the other.
Rooms from kitchens to bedrooms, dining rooms to living rooms, are the simplest of all to fit for new lights. Most of the time you are going to have existing wiring, junctions, switches, and fixtures to work with. Moving to downlights or LED Spotlights is fairly simple because you can make use of ceiling recesses, wall spaces and so on. Just make sure you know exactly where all utilities are from water pipes to gas to wires and joists. Plan thoroughly and take your time, as one of the most frustrating events that can occur when planning new lighting is to find that there are no nearby power sources available, forcing you to run additional wires and add more time to your project.
Lofts present an interesting challenge within a home. You have the advantage of wall spaces – usually along two rather than sides, and underfloor space which is often filled with insulation materials. When wiring any underfloor sections, the wires need to be well insulated and all junctions covered – please consult professionals about the best way to wire these areas. Ceiling spaces may be slightly more difficult to light due to sloping roofs and a lack of places to hide wires. This means spotlights tend to be the best light fixtures though some may use downlights on an artificial ceiling at the very top of the roof, which would solve this particular problem.
When doing loft conversions, planning and safety are paramount. Good flooring needs to be added to ensure you do not accidentally fall into the rooms below because the lower floor ceiling board is not going to carry your weight.
Additionally, LED Panels are a fantastic way to add extra light to your new loft. For example, LED Panel lights can easily be incorporated into existing (or new!) ceiling fans to brighten up the area, and save a few pounds on your next power bill at the same time.
Many but not all garages have sockets pre-installed in the house and may also house the building’s main circuit board and fuses. Installing lights is fairly simple for garages and workshops. You need a good powerful light for the main room – we’d suggest a couple of tube lights down the middle of the space using ceiling fixtures. If it is a garage space you’re lighting, you’ll have to run the cables along the ceiling and down the wall to your mains as there’s no ceiling or wall spaces to hide them. For workshops, we’d advise you to use spotlights over specific tools or workstations so you can direct/focus light specifically on the task at hand.
If your garage is detached from the main house and is not pre-connected, you will need to use an aboveground or belowground cable to connect the two, this may, given you will be using the workshop for power tools require a new fuse, so if a tool triggers the fuse the rest of the house is isolated from any damage/overloading.
Lighting Your Shed
Often times, sheds have little-to-none natural lighting and LED light bulbs can be the perfect solution for bringing light into these small quarters. Depending on the size of your shed, you may only need a few LED bulbs to light a large structure, or just a single small LED bulb to bring light to a smaller shed.
The key challenge for adding lighting to an outdoor shed is how you wire the lights into the mains electrics in the house. The further your shed is from the house, the more of an issue this is. Assuming the lights are not powered by an auxiliary generator, solar panels on the roof or from batteries, there’s two main ways to connect to the house using cables. One is the overhead cable which is ok for shorter distances, but does require a means of keeping it taut, weatherproof, and safe for people to walk under. The most common method is to bury the cable under ground and connect to the mains within the house – usually via the kitchen or garage depending which is closer. Seek professional advice on the best way to connect the two together.
Within the shed, assuming it is prebuilt or build to order or just built to instructions, lights will require fixtures and traditional lights and spotlights tend to make for the best ones. You will need to consider the fact that unlike with building lights, you cannot hide wires in cavities and ceiling spaces. The wires will need to be pinned to the wall and run down to the main cable going to the house. This will make it harder to hide wires internally.
Make sure you know where the joists are so you can avoid them.
Plot out your lights before you start – know how many you want and where you want them.
Measure the size of the lights so they fit the hole properly.
Install LEDs where you’ll use them most
LED bulbs are still expensive and so, unless you have the budget to replace all the bulbs in your home at once, you’ll have to replace bulbs as they burn out. In the long run, your investment will pay you back in energy savings.
But, as Money Talks News founder Stacy Johnson has learned, it matters where you use your LED bulbs if you hope your investment will repay you soon. Put an LED in your closet, for example, or another place where the bulb is seldom used, and it may be years and years before the bulb’s cost is repaid in energy savings. It’s best to use your LEDs where the payoff will be fastest, in the light fixtures that get most use in the high-traffic parts of your home.
Get the light color you want
If you were turned off by the harsh white quality of light from older LEDs you’ll be glad to know there are more options now. LED bulbs offer a range of colors, from a warmer yellow-white, akin to the color of incandescent bulbs, to a whiter white or blueish white.
Match the bulb shape to your fixture
LED bulbs come in a number of unfamiliar shapes. You’ll find spiral bulbs, different types of globes, spotlights, floodlights and some shaped like candle flames. One useful shape is the MR16, a smallish, cone-shaped bulb.
Which bulb will work in your can lights? Which is best for the ceiling-fan light? For a table lamp? This brief, illustrated Energy Star guide and EarthEnergy’s bulb guide show which shapes work best in various types of fixtures.
Choose the right bulb for dimmers
Another problem with LEDs used to be finding bulbs that were compatible with the dimmer switches in your home. Some buzz, flicker or just fail to respond to a dimmer switch.
Those still can be problems, but CNET tested bulbs and has a recommendation. The Philips 60-watt LED performed best. It’s easily found in stores, but don’t confuse it with the less-expensive Philips SlimStyle LED, which buzzed badly in a dimmer (although it may be good for other uses). The Philips bulb isn’t the only solution. Read bulbs’ packaging to find the ones recommended for use with dimmer switches.
The solution is to buy a dimmer switch rated for both CFL and LED bulbs. Two reputable manufacturers of CFL/LED dimmers are Leviton and Lutron; both provide lists of bulbs they’ve verified will work with their dimmers.
When upgrading from fluorescent to LED, there are a few aspects to consider to ensure the proper light bulb is safely above your head. In order to do so, we here at 1000Bulbs have created a buyer’s guide to educate the not-so-common user on the differences between T5, T8, and T1LED fluorescent replacement tubes.
Simplest installation of the three
Between the three, there are a few pros and cons to consider. Direct Wire is certainly the most energy efficient because it doesn’t require a power source controller, like a ballast, to operate. More than likely it will require an electrician to remove the ballast and rewire the fixture to the line-voltage. Plug-N-Play is the simplest way to reduce energy costs from fluorescent tubes, but only if you know the ballast in your fixture is compatible. Even though it’s as simple as plugging in a new light bulb, keep in mind if the ballast fails, then the LED alternative would most likely not continue to operate until the ballast is replaced. In order to combat the cons of the two LED tube types previously mentioned, a Hybrid version has the capability to operate with most ballasts or even without a ballast. If you were to install a Hybrid tube into the fixture via Plug-N-Play if the ballast would fail, the bulb would cease to operate unless the ballast is either replaced or removed and converted to a Direct Wire installation. Even though this sounds like a no-brainer, this version is still not as efficient as the direct wire style.
Since LED retrofits consume fewer watts to operate, the LED tubes are referred to fluorescent replacements. For example, a 15-watt TLED tube substitutes a 32-watt Tfluorescent tube and is referred to a F32Treplacement.
Tube Color Temperature
When installing or replacing your overhead lighting, it is important that you know about color temperature so you have lighting which is consistent spanning the entire cover area of your application. Color temperature is rated on a scale called Kelvin (K) and color usually ranges between 2400k to 6500k. The colors available on the market will typically fall under 2700k, 4000k, and 6000k. Viribright features all major color ways, and we were the first to make all three colors available universally across our entireproduct line.
Non-Shunted Rapid Start Tombstones
This introduces a unique requirement. It is required that the socket is a “Non-Shunted Rapid Start” or T1type. You are fortunate if you already have a T1fixture. This means you already have all of the necessary hardware. The input side sockets on Tfixtures must be changed over to “Non-Shunted Rapid Start” T1sockets because there is a circular conductor in Tsockets that disallows them to separate the line or the circuit’s neutral sides properly. Although the wiring is fairly simple and only takes a few minutes per fixture to perform, we recommend this task only be performed by a qualified electrician.
For commercial properties, this is required. Although the installation requirements for ballast bypass tubes are more complex, there are greater advantages. Their unit costs are lower compared to all other options. This is a very important consideration with large projects when each and every dollar really counts.
Low Running Temperature
The temperature of your grow room is incredibly important. Without the right attention paid to how hot your grow room is getting, you will run the risk of losing entire crops. Even with the right attention, it can often require extensive cooling systems to keep your room cool. LED grow lights have an advantage in that they run at a temperature that is simply warm to the touch, rather than approaching 400 or even 500 degrees.
Traditional forms of lighting your indoor grow can be very powerful, but unfortunately they aren’t very power efficient. That is why LED grow lights are preferred. They have the power to produce a great deal of light without having to draw much power. Doing this saves you money in the long run.
When you use the best LED grow lights, you will have the chance to grow for years without having to replace your lighting system. Most LED lights are rated at somewhere between 50,000 and 100,000 hours of use. For comparison, many other grow lights tend to last for around 20,000 hours before needing to be replaced.
The Colors of The Spectrum
Natural sunlight features the entire spectrum of light. When constructing LED panels, the manufacturers use only certain kinds of LEDs that will provide a specific color in order to feed your plants what they need. Here we will look at the different colors, including what the best combination is for your grow operation.
Blue. Blue LED lights, in the mid-400nm range, are ideal for vegetative growth that creates tall, leafy plants. During the flowering and budding phase, though, blue light is not very helpful and it can cause bushy plants without many buds.
Red. In contrast to blue light, Red LEDs in the 600-640 nm range will help encourage budding and flowering. Much like the way that blue light doesn’t help with flowering, too much red light will not help with vegetative growth, creating unhealthy plants.
White. White LEDs are a source of contention for many people, but if nothing else they are beneficial for you in order to see inside of your grow room. With only red and blue LEDs inside of your operation, it will be almost impossible to see problems accurately and correct them. There is a great deal of speculation, as well, centered on the balancing of the spectrum that they provide.
Ultraviolet. Ultraviolet light is not used in all LED grows, but it can be something worth experimenting with. The theory on using these originally comes from people who noticed that equatorial strains of marijuana had a much higher potency, despite having the most “damaging” rays of light going to them. Research has found that it could beneficial to use ultraviolet light in short bursts when you are looking to increase THC production.
The Right Combination
Ensuring proper growth and plant health means making sure they have the right blend of light. Natural outdoor grows have the benefit of living in a world where all of the right wavelengths are provided to them, although it is relatively simple to replicate that indoors.
For the optimum ratio of different colors, you should have the following in the panel that you are using. As long as it is close, you will be fine.
There are many growers that attempt to simply use one set of red LED grow lights and one set of blue LED lights. The problem with this is that it lacks the ability to provide your plants with the full range that they are used to having in nature. During an outdoor growth cycle, the kind of light that it receives fluctuates and moves as the days and months progress. Replicating that inside of your grow room is an important part of successful harvests. Leave no stone unturned and no helpful wavelength left out.
The vegetative growth cycle is where you’ll end up saving money on electricity bills since your plants don’t need incredibly intense light. What is most important to them is having steady, color coordinated LED light for long periods of time.
During the vegetative stage of growth, your cannabis plants need to have 1and 1hours of light each day. Depending on your growing method, this could last longer due to the excess growth needed for things like Screen Of Green techniques. With this much light, they will build strong roots and a solid main stem that will support your buds, in addition to lots and lots of foliage, including the famous five-fingered sun leaves.
This is an important stage in terms of light wavelength because you must ensure that the leaves and stem are healthy, this is where the carbon dioxide and light will be converted into food through photosynthesis.
Typically, four to six weeks of this stage is necessary under the right kind of lighting. LEDs fit in that category. Once your plants start showing what are known as “pre-flowers,” they are ready to start budding whenever you are happy with the size that they have reached.
While LEDs turn on instantly and do not require time to power on, it is still important that it be an automated process, rather than turning them on and off yourself when it is time. There are a multitude of timers out there that can handle this for you. Pick one up and set it to the right amount of light and dark and you will be good to go. Try your best to not enter the grow room during a dark period, however. You should strive for total darkness during the “off” hours, which is easier when you are not going in and out, but you should also make sure that the room is sealed off as well for best results.
LED vs HID Grow Lights
HID lighting works by sending electrical currents through metal vapors, that charge the electrons and cause them to bump into each other, creating light. It takes a few seconds, but within half a minute they are at full output and then will have to cool completely if they are turned off before they can be turned back on. This can cause them to use a good deal of power, but many people still swear by their use in large part.
The reason many people turn to LED grow lights is because they are efficient in every way imaginable. LED lights are designed to emit only the right red and blue spectrum light that helps to encourage the flowering and vegetative growth that you rely on for productive harvests that don’t end up costing you a lot of money in expenses.
HID lights, on the other hand, fall short in those categories. The HID lights are very bright and very powerful, but they unfortunately produce a large amount of heat that has to be diffused by airflow systems and maintained at all times. That also means you will be forced to deal with the extra costs of running the lights themselves, which can grow incredibly expensive when they are being run on a daily basis. They will effectively grow plants at any stage of life, but it will come at a cost and they require a great deal of attention.
LED vs Fluorescent Grow Lights
Fluorescent lighting is very popular due to the relatively low heat compared to HID systems. In comparison to LED lights, however, they cannot keep up. In fact, many people who use fluorescent lights end up having to add LED grow lights in order to make sure their plants have everything they need.
Fluorescent grow lights use mercury vapor and neon, xenon, argon, or krypton that has been pressurized inside of the tube. This causes a problem in that they are not environmentally friendly and have to be disposed of safely if you are concerned about the planet.
They are cheap to buy, cheap to run, and easy to replace, although they will not have the same level of savings in initial cost and power costs. LED grow lights have fluorescent tubes beat hands down in this regard. For something that is simply cooler than traditional lighting systems, this can be an option, albeit not the best one.
LED vs Plasma Grow Lights
Plasma grow lights are often seen as one of the most technologically advanced grow lamps on the market, but they are also the most expensive that you will come across. These lights do not use electrodes or filaments, like traditional lighting systems do. In reality, they offer a great number of benefits over most types of grow lights.
While they are expensive, they are incredibly powerful and efficient. Plasma Grow Lights offer the same full spectrum light that fluorescent and HPS systems provide, incredible levels of efficiency, and save space compared to lights that require ballasts and extensive wiring harnesses.
TGrow Lights With LED Bulbs
TLED grow lights are some of the greatest innovations in fluorescent technology. They have a lot of benefits over older Tand T1types of fluorescent lights, but many people still want to make the switch to LED lights without having to completely replace their lighting systems. Tgrow lights with LED bulbs are the perfect way to do this.
Essentially, Tgrow lights are 5/8” in diameter and filled with gasses that produce light when electricity passes through them. Here, that same size tube will be replaced with a narrow panel of LEDs. The tubes that typically use around 50 watts of power will now use around 20 watts and accomplish the same thing. You also inherit the other benefits of LED lights, although they will be a little more expensive than the Ttubes.
The added benefit of this is that you will be able to use much larger panels inside of your grow. For larger operations, it can be difficult to hang many smaller LED panels that are only one to two feet long. With TLED tubes, there are options that measure four feet in length and can cover many more square feet than typical LED lights and greatly simplify the amount of equipment that is hanging from the ceiling of your grow room.
TLED grow lamps aren’t the most ideal option for many growers, but they are a very high quality option for keeping things simple when you would like to use the highest quality technology available.
LED Grow Light Bulbs
Know How To Replace Them. Many of the LED panels you’ll be using will have up to 100 or more individual LEDs. Some of those may fail over time, so you need to know how to replace them. Some are soldered into place, primarily those made in China, but most recent LED panels can be replaced just like any other bulb.
Choose The Right Colors. You have already learned above about what kind of colors you should be using, but if you become an advanced grower you can begin to choose the ratios more selectively. The more you understand about the growing process, the more you can tailor your color choices to fit your own needs and plants.
Hydro Grow take pride in being able to convert even the most technologically averse growers to LED innovations, something that is never easy. They might not be the cheapest grow lights on the market, although there is a very good reason: the work, they work well, and they are some of the most advanced that you will ever come across.
TotalGrow™ lights are inspired by how plants really absorb and use light. Using Solid State Volumetric Lighting Technology, TotalGrow™ lights produce a Broad Grow Spectrum in the wavelengths plants need most for healthy and quick growth and deliver industry-leading uniformity for enhanced coverage and penetration.
TaoTronics has produced a number of lighting products since they started in 2008, but their LED grow lights for indoor operations are where they truly shine. In the past six years, they have delivered products to millions of growers all over the world, many of who come back time and time again. Their study of what consumers want has lead them to making some of the top grow lights that are sure to fit any need you have as a grower. The simplified systems they have created let you stress less and grow more.
Growing Tips For Indoor LED Grow
Use A Reflector. With LED lights, depending on the option you choose, it can be helpful to have reflectors that direct the light to exactly where you need them. Many are non directional and need help.
Keep An Eye On The Temperature. LED grow lights run incredibly cool compared to other options. That can, however, cause problems in some cases, since your plants might actually get too cold. Add heat if necessary and always keep an eye on the temp.
Add LEDs When Needed. To get the best results, you may want to add an additional panel of blue LEDs on the sides of your plants. This will help deliver the necessary light to all of the leaves if you are growing traditionally, meaning without a SCROG or SOG technique.
Keep Them At The Right Distance. Maintaining the proper distance with LED lights will dramatically improve your grows. LED lights can be kept closer than other types of grow lights, but you have to be careful to have them at a distance that allows them to completely cover the canopy.
Protect Your Investment. LED grow lights can be an expensive investment, so make sure you take care of them. Use a power stabilizer to regulate the voltage going to them. This keeps the power at an even level and prevents the damage that spikes and surges can cause.
Foot Print Light Size
Use these numbers to scale up your grow if you have a space that is larger than this. Keep in mind that you will have to make sure that you place the grow lights in the proper place as well, in order to make sure there are no gaps in coverage that leave some plants underfed.
Engineered for Long LED Life Expectancy
The keys to LED efficiency and lifespan are tight current control and effective cooling. That is why the DS XTE 200 uses LED drivers with tight current control and wide input voltage tolerance, a metal-core PCB and oversized heat sinks. These features ensure the US-made LEDs meet their expected 100,000 hours of operation.
Six Bands of Switchable Spectrum
The SolarStorm 440W grow light has six bands of PAR spectrum available: 3100K warm-white light plus bands of deep blue for stimulating vegetative growth and two deep red bands for flowering. Two Tfluorescent bulbs add UV-B for increased flower potency during the last two weeks before harvest.
Promotion TaoTronics TT-GL180*3W Bands LED Light
You might not have heard of TaoTronics before, but there is no denying the kind of quality they provide in the form of grow lights such as the TT-GL180*3W band LED grow light.
Having the right kind of light shining on your plants is incredibly important. Fortunately, TaoTronics has made that an easy task with the six wavelengths of light included in this LED grow light. This is specifically designed to make vegetative growth easy and budding extremely fruitful.
For a well rounded grow, give this LED light a look. You won’t regret it.
G8LED 90 WATT All Red LED Grow Light
The G8LED 90 Watt All Red LED is the result of G8LED and DormGrow teaming up to produce an LED grow light that offers the best results for flowering, without making any sacrifices.
According to the company, this light is the perfect addition to any existing grow, but a system of them works great during the flowering stage in particular due to the exclusive use of Red spectrum lighting, which is exactly what your indoor plants crave during this crucial time period.
In doing this, they have created a light that requires 90% less power than most traditional lights and can use all of the power that it does require to help your plants grow larger than ever. That small amount of electricity powers the fans and power utilities that will prevent you from having to use any expensive ballasts or venting systems to keep the room cool. This means you will be able to save a lot of money in long term expenses. Being rated at 50,000 hours also means that these are grow lights that are going to last for a very long time.
In order help people get over the initial speculation around switching to an LED grow, the company is offering a 90-day money back guarantee that covers any reason that a person might be unhappy with their purchase. If for any reason you are unhappy during that time you can simply return it at no charge to you. If you decide to keep it, though, you will be covered for three years in case you need to have anything repaired or need to replace the LED grow light altogether.
The only downsides to this particular LED grow light are the red lights that are used. This isn’t good for young plants that are still in vegetative growth stages, but once they reach a flowering stage this will be a great choice and a very worthwhile investment.
Pros & Cons of LED Light
CFL stands for compact fluorescent lighting, which is simply a smaller version of a fluorescent tube. CFL bulbs contain a mercury vapor that lights when it is energized. Because CFLs contain mercury, they must be disposed of carefully, at designated drop-off site (Home Depot, Lowes, recycling centers, etc). An average CFL bulb should last 7,000 hours.
Pros & Cons of Incandescent Light
Incandescent light is an electric process that produces light with a wire filament that is heated to a high temperature by an electric current which runs through it. This is the type of lighting which was the standard in homes up until the 1990’s. Due to its poor energy efficiency, it is being replaced with the newer technology of LED and CFL bulbs. Incandescent bulbs last roughly 1,000 hours.
Pros & Cons of Halogen Light
Similar to incandescent light bulbs, halogen bulbs use a similar electric-filament technology with one important difference; with incandescents the filament degrades via evaporation over time whereas, with halogens, filament evaporation is prevented by a chemical process that redeposits metal vapor onto the filament, thereby extending its life. Halogen bulbs have a lifespan of roughly 3,000 hours.
Color Temperature & Lighting Color temperature is a characteristic of visible light. The temperature of light refers to its warmness or coolness, or hue. This temperature is measured using the Kelvin scale, which for most use ranges from 2,700°-7,500°K. Incandescent and halogen lighting are the most limited in the temperature range at 2,700°-3,000°K. LED and CFL have each expanded their color range to now offering warmer options. Most task lighting, however, benefits from cooler lighting options which include LED, full spectrum, and CFL.
The distribution of light on a flat surface is called its illumination and is measured in footcandles. A footcandle of illumination is a lumen of light spread over a one square foot area.
The illumination needed varies according to the difficulty of a visual task. Ideal illumination is the minimum footcandles necessary to allow you to perform a task comfortably and efficiently without eyestrain or fatigue. According to the Illuminating Engineering Society, illumination of 30 to 50 footcandles is needed for most home and office work. Intricate and lengthy visual tasks — like sewing — require 200 to 500 footcandles.
1,000-1,400 Lumens is a commonly accepted range for most applications of task lighting. An average of 50 Lumens per square foot is a common measure. efficacy. Efficacy is the ratio of light output from a lamp to the electric power it uses and is measured in lumens per watt.
Demystifying LED Light
The reading area should have a bright task lamp. A bright desk lamp can prevent eye strain which is helpful in preventing eye damage in the long run. With bright task lamps in the reading area, you can keep headaches away. Thus, you will surely enjoy reading as well as other activities like writing letters or completing puzzles.
Your kitchen is another part of the home that requires task lighting. The dangerous nature of the activities you do in your kitchen is reason enough to get additional task lighting. More importantly, you need enough light to read recipes and to see the ingredients as they cook as well as other practical things. For kitchens, common task lighting fixtures are under cabinet lights that provide extra illumination to supplement the ambient light.
The most recognisable type of bulb, and the easiest to replace. Let’s say you have a standard 60W incandescent bulb which you use to light your lounge and replace it with a 12W Verbatim LED bulb. This is overkill, if anything, as the replacement will be noticeably brighter (producing 1,100 lumens – the equivalent of a 77W incandescent bulb and representing 8percent energy saving).
Using some average figures – 15p per kWh of electricity – you’ll save around £per year.
They’re said to last for 25,000 hours – the same as the Verbatim – and you’ll break even in roughly two years.
There are various types of incandescent bulb. The common version – in the photo above – is an E2screw, but it can also have a traditional bayonet fitting. Most LED bulbs offer a choice of either fitting.
You may also have R50 spotlight bulbs (also known as SES or E14) in ceiling light fittings. These are fairly widely available as LED versions.
However, using the same SES / E1screw fitting are many ‘candle’ bulbs. Again, these are easily available in LED.
All of these are inefficient and can be replaced with LEDs. Halogen spotlights are perhaps the worst culprits as although they use less power than incandescent bulbs, they’re rarely used singly. Typically there will be up to six or eight per room, and if each is a 35W lamp, that’s between 200 and 300W. Halogens are notoriously inefficient, such that you can buy ‘energy-efficient’ halogen bulbs, but even these save only around a third.
Halogens come in two main types: GU(mains voltage) and MR1(low voltage – 12V). Just because some are low voltage doesn’t mean they use less power. They don’t.
Don’t forget your outdoor lighting. Halogen floodlights – which have lamps which consume between 120 and 500 watts – can be replaced with 10- or 20W LED versions for around £to £20 per light: you replace the entire light fitting. This 10W model costs only £9.9from Toolstation.
Colour temperature is crucial: most people prefer the warm white, which is very similar to halogen, rather than the ‘cold’ bluish tint of white or cool-white LEDs. Look out for the actual colour temperature in Kelvin: 2700-3000K is a good warm white. Higher values, say 5000K or 6000K will look cooler. If you want a whiter look, be careful as you can end up with a very clinical look.
Next up is beam angle. This determines the spread of light the bulb produces. A narrower angle means light will be concentrated on a smaller area, like a spotlight. A larger angle is better for lighting a larger area, but don’t forget this means it could appear dimmer overall. For replacing Halogen downlights, look for a beam angle of around 40 degrees. Incadescent replacements should have a much larger beam angle, say 140 degrees.
CRI is another spec you should see (if you don’t, it’s worth asking for the CRI figure). Here’s why: CRI stands for Colour Rendering Index and is a measure of the light quality from 0 to 100. In other words, the CRI score tells you if objects appear the correct colour when lit using that bulb. Incandescent bulbs had a brilliant CRI, but not so with fluorescent tubes. If you want to avoid bad-looking lighting, it’s crucial to go for LEDs with a high CRI.
Not all LEDs use the same technology. Cheaper bulbs will tend to use multiple SMD (surface-mount device) LEDs, but newer or more expensive ones will use COB – chip on-board LEDs.
COB offers a higher light output per watt, and tends to be used in smaller bulbs such as MR1COB isn’t necessarily better than SMD, though. It depends on the form factor of the bulbs you’re buying and your priorities in terms of budget.
If you are replacing low-voltage halogen bulbs, there are no guarantees that LEDs will work on your particular transformers which may require a minimum power draw to work properly. If the draw is too low from your super-efficient LED bulbs, they may flicker or not work at all. In this case, you would need to either replace the transformers with proper LED drivers, or change the fittings from MR1to mains-voltage GUfittings and buy GULED bulbs instead. Fittings are cheap, and it may be cheaper to go down this route than buy an LED driver for each MR1bulb.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your led tubelight wisely! Good luck!
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